Heavenly Accommodations At Sinfully Low Rates Stay in a beautiful Spanish monastery for about 20 euros a day. Open to all without religious obligation. THIS WEBSITE CONTAINS EXCERPTS FROM The Guide To Lodging In Spain's Monasteries The Guide To Lodging in Spain's Monasteries is your passport to over 150 of Spain's monasteries, convents and casas that extend hospitality to guests. It is the only comprehensive source providing easy access to this remarkable travel experience. "In depth personal interviews give you an inside track on nearby towns and villages as well as the interesting folklore of Spain. This guide will make your trip to Spain a unique adventure." Stay in a beautiful monastery for about $30 per day. Perhaps most remarkable is the low cost of the accommodations and meals. The majority of the rates range between a voluntary donation to about $30 per night, often including meals. Open to all without religious obligation. Staying in a monastery, convent or casa is a wonderful travel experience. Everything you need to plan your trip is included: Spanish/English reservation letter, contact info, email addresses, costs, amenities, public transportation and driving directions. Eileen Barish is the award-winning author of unique travel guides. Recipient of numerous awards, Eileen Barish's books have been reviewed by over 500 newspapers and periodicals world-wide. ARAGÓN Enveloped by a verdant woodland, the monastery occupies a mountaintop location. Founded at the end of the 17th century by the Benedictine Order on the site of the Shrine of Nuestra Señora de Monlora, it is about two miles from the small village of Luna. A Gothic hermitage is all that endures of the very first settlement. The remainder of the complex is Baroque in style. The institution is presently entrusted to the brotherhood of Our Lady of Monlora. The Benedictine community inhabiting the monastery is among the oldest in Spain. It was established in Santa Cruz de la Seró in the 10th century and transferred to Jaca in 1555. The structure of the monastery is an unusual one partly built on the walls of the city. The church is Romanesque in style and contains a sarcophagus of the Infanta, daughter of King Ramiro I. Located approximately eighteen miles from France, the origins of Jaca date to the 2nd century AD. The monastery lies on the outskirts of Sos del Rey Católico, a medieval town and birthplace of Ferdinand of Aragón (hence the town's royal name). Also known as el Rey Católico, Ferdinand unified Spain by marrying Isabel of Castilla. The legend of the shrine began in the 13th century when the image of Mary appeared. Since the belief of the local people was not strong enough, the Virgin left an additional sign of her presence by making a miraculous spring appear. The spring is still known as the Fuente de la Virgen, Spring of the Virgin. ASTURIAS The monastery sits in the pretty town along the route to Santiago de Compostela. The building was erected in 1833 and a community of Carmélite Nuns has inhabited the structure since that time. The chapel shelters a 16th century wooden statue of Christ. The monastery lies between Rocamadour and the Tarn Gorges. The deep chasms of the Tarn were formed thousands of years ago during an intense geological upheaval. The area is worth visiting for the landscapes alone. BALEARIC ISLANDS The monastery sprawls atop a mountain above Felanitx, a small, rural town renowned for its church, Esglesia de Sant Miquel. Begun in the 13th century, it was rebuilt in the 16th and 17th centuries by the kings of Aragón. The town of Felanitx is also noted for its Sobrasada de Porc negre, (an exquisite sausage of black pork) and for Sant Joan Pelós, a fiesta held on June 24th. The sanctuary is reached via a road of incredible natural beauty. Its lofty position offers far-reaching views of the coast. High in the mountains lies the remote village of Lluc and the Monasterio de Lluc. The vast and austere monastery was built during the 17th and 18th centuries on the site of a 13th century shrine. The Baroque complex is an imposing structure. The church and monastery contain precious works of art which can be seen in the museum. The collection includes Mallorcan paintings and medieval manuscripts. Along the Camí dels Misteris (Walk of the Mysteries), is a series of bronze bas-reliefs designed by Antoni Gaudí. The hermitage and its hospedería are on a mountain in the center of the island, a couple of miles from Petra. "You can see all of Mallorca from our institution," said the person in charge of hospitality. The hermitage was originally a shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary who appeared in the 16th century. At the onset, the temple consisted only of a roof and altar. Over the years, devotion by the local populace made it possible to build a church. The façade and altar are from the original building. BASQUE COUNTRY The monastery, a fine Romanesque structure, sits in a woodland at the top of a hill in the small town of Estíbaliz. It was a stop along the northern route to Santiago de Compostela. The church was founded in 1138 to host the sacred image of Santa María de Estíbaliz who has always been the patron saint of the Álava province. In medieval times, the highly venerated image was carried to meetings of the local government to bless the council. The monastery was founded in 1646 by Doña María de Lazkano, a noblewoman who owned much of the land and buildings in the area. The first stone of the structure was set in 1650 and construction was completed in 1716. During the ensuing centuries, the monastery flourished. "It was considered a very 'rich' monastery," according to one of the sisters. "The monastery preserves a pretty stone cloister and some personal objects that belonged to Doña María," she added. The casa lies in a tiny town in the Valley of Carrenza, a tableau of woodlands, meadows and mountains close to Bilbao and the Basque coast. Built between 1895 and 1897, the casa was originally a private spa which achieved international fame. In 1976, it hosted its first visitors. Restored in 1985, guests can take advantage of the peaceful atmosphere as well as the beneficial waters of the hot spring. CANTABRIA Installed in a breathtaking location between the sea and mountains, the monastery is a relatively new institution (completed in 1910). The first group of monks arrived in 1904. They came from an abbey in France to found a new monastery. This was made possible through the donations of Antonio and Manuel Bernaldo de Quirós who left their family possessions to the Benedictine Order. CASTILLA-LA MANCHA The convent is in the center of El Toboso, a small village of La Mancha, a town strongly connected to the story of Don Quixote. Known as the "Little Escorial of La Mancha," the convent is an impressive structure built in Herreriano style. "Our walls are 1.5 meters thick," said the Mother Superior. The complex which includes the convent and church was built in 1680 by Ángela María de a Concepción who had a vision of the convent as it looks today. Nine years after having the vision, she came and built the convent. The monastery was founded in 1186 by a Benedictine community which settled here during the reconquista, the time when Christians reconquered the land from the Arabs. "As the reconquista advanced, monasteries were founded," the madre explained. The nuns lived uninterruptedly until 1936 when a fire (during the Civil War) completely destroyed the complex and the valuable artwork accumulated over the course of seven centuries. The monastery has been entirely rebuilt. CASTILLA-LEON The monastery is in Ayllón, a small historical town at the foot of the Sierra de Ayllón in the province of Segovia. The large Renaissance complex was built in the 15th century by a noble family to host the nuns of the Dominican Order. The monastery has two double-storied cloisters; the lower floors are reserved for the nuns, the upper ones house guests. The interior shelters a statue of the Virgin Mary attributed to the school of Alonso Cano (1601-1667), an architect and sculptor who lived and worked in Seville, Granada, Toledo and Madrid. Nestled in a woodland setting above the small village of La Vid, the Monasterio is on a high hill alongside the banks of the Duero River. Founded in 1162, it was inhabited by the Premonstratenses monks until 1835 when the religious suppression forced the order to abandon the monastery. In 1600, the complex was enlarged and enriched with many works of art in the Baroque style. The enlargement embodied a new cloister and the present church, which was begun in 1522 and completed in 1737. The origins of the monastery have been lost in the mists of legend. According to tradition, a group of Benedictine nuns settled in the monastery in 537 and remained until 834. At that time, all three hundred inhabitants were brutally martyrized by the Moors who destroyed the dwelling. After a miraculous apparition of a cross, the institution was rebuilt in 968. This structure was also devastated by the Moors. During the 13th century, the monastery was once again rebuilt. The complex is well preserved. The most interesting artifact is the miraculous wooden cross. Founded in 1162 by Alfonso VII of Castilla, the mainly Gothic design of the monastery has been preserved. It was inhabited by the Cistercian Order until 1830 when the monks were forced to leave during the religious suppression. They returned in 1930 and since that time have restored and revived the spiritual life of the monastery. Although not as renowned as other religious sites, it is nevertheless a gem of Spanish Gothic architecture and sculpture. Erected over the ruins of a Visigothic abbey destroyed by the Moors, the tranquil setting and spiritual aura of the monastery has roused a myriad of poets to sing its praises. The Romanesque cloisters are among the most beautiful in Spain. Built around an ancient cypress tree, the capitals are sculpted in an array of designs, many in the shape of animals. The corners depict Biblical scenes while the ceilings are a reflection of Moorish style and are painted with scenes representing life in the Middle Ages. The monastery has been declared a Spanish national monument because of the beauty of its Romanesque church and cloister which date from the 13th and 12th centuries respectively. It was founded in 1018 by the Benedictine Order which is still in residence. "It is a very attractive complex because we have succeeded in blending ancient and modern architecture... especially in the residencia. It is pretty, inexpensive and very clean. Even the food is very good," the sister added. CATALONIA Surrounded by towering mountains in an enchanting valley of the Pyrenees, the sanctuary constitutes one of the most important Catalan shrines. In the past, the complex could only be reached via Els Pelegrins Trail through a verdant, albeit rocky valley of the thundering Río Núria. Now it can be accessed by a cable train (Little Cremallera Railway) from Ribes de Freser or Queralbs, an attractive stone village. The steep seven-mile journey rises over 3,250'. EXTREMADURA Founded in 1408 by the monks of San Jerónimo, the monastery is nestled in a wooded region and looks today as it did centuries ago. The same order has inhabited the monastery from its inception, living in seclusion as they have always done. Roman Emperor Carlo V, Holy lived on the monastery grounds for nearly two years. Among the most interesting features of the monastery are the apartments built by the king and the place where he spent the final years of his life. The original furnishings have been preserved. From its central location, the monastery's turreted towers and crenelations rise dramatically over the town and surrounding wooded valley. Founded in 1340, the architecture is a combination of Gothic, Mudéjar and Plateresque components of unusual grandeur. In many ways, the monastery closely resembles a medieval castle. Originally inhabited by Jerónimos monks, the monastery flourished under the Catholic kings and became an important cultural center. GALICIA The monastery was founded in the 12th century by the Knights of Don Ero de Armenteira. The Don accompanied Alphonso VII on his battles against Hispanic Islam in the south of Spain. In 1150, he retreated to his estate and founded the monastery. According to legend, during one of Ero's meditations in the nearby woods, he became engrossed listening to the sweet song of a bird for what seemed like a few minutes. When he returned to the monastery, centuries, not minutes, had passed. The sanctuary was founded after a miraculous apparition of the Virgin Mary to a local shepherdess. It is the largest sanctuary of the province and one of the most important of Galicia and Portugal. About a century ago, upon the invitation of the bishopric of Orense, the present religious community took up residence. The complex faces a large square. It is flanked on one side by the domicile of the fathers and the Casa Spiritual and on the other by the hospedería, restaurant and cafeteria. It is believed that the large complex was originally founded in the 7th century by a member of the Visigothic royal family. The Monastery dates to the high Middle Ages when it was in the hands of the Benedictine Order. During the 12th and 13th centuries, under the protection of the Spanish monarchs, the monastery flourished and grew in importance. The monastery reached its acme in the 16th and 17th centuries when it was enlarged and enriched by many works of art. LA RIOJA The institution was inhabited by Benedictine monks until 1878 when the Augustinian Order took up residence. The original building was reconstructed in the 16th and 17th centuries in the style of Herrera and is known as the Escorial de la Rioja because of its remarkable size and outstanding walls. The 16th century church is partly Renaissance with Baroque golden doors. The library of Yuso is among the most important sites of the monastery. San Millán is considered the cradle of the Castilian and Basque language. Occupying a lofty and somewhat isolated site 4000' above sea level, the monastery sits in a wooded, mountainous terrain on the edge of the Sierra de la Demanda Nature Reserve. Founded more than a thousand years ago by the Benedictine Order, the monks have continued in residence since that time. In the Middle Ages, the monastery was famous and powerful and once hosted Queen Isabel. The Gothic church is highly regarded and preserves the Visigothic wooden statue of Mary, patron saint of the region of La Rioja. The monastery occupies a solitary position in a variegated panorama of verdant pine trees, rolling hills and dramatic mountains. The history of the monastery began in 1142 when a group of Franciscan friars founded a convent. They occupied the convent until 1835 when the Desamortización (suppression) forced them to leave. They returned a few years later and remained until the 1970s. The monastery is a modern, functional building. Ruins of the partly Gothic, partly Baroque ancient church can be visited. MADRID The abbey is enclosed by a woodland that has been declared a protected area. Founded by General Franco in 1958, it was entrusted to a group of twenty-six monks who originally resided in Abadía de Santo Domingo. The abbey's architecture is reminiscent of Renaissance style; arcades surround a square containing two fountains. The immense cross was built as a memorial to those who died in the Civil War. An elevator climbs to the arms of the cross and provides excellent views over the monastery and pine-clad hills and valleys. NAVARRA The monastery was founded around 1140 by French Cistercian monks who built the structure according to the rules dictated by Saint Bernard of Clairvaux. It lies in a remote plain surrounded by vineyards and fields, some of which belong to the order. The monastery grew to importance in the Middle Ages but during the religious suppressions of the 19th century, the monastery was abandoned. It remained closed until 1927 when it was restored and reopened. The monastery is blessed with a magnificent mountainside position. Reached through a wooded gorge, the Monasterio was built in the 12th century. As befitting a Cistercian institution, the church and its cloisters reflect an austere but graceful simplicity. The first information about the monastery dates to the 11th century when it was a Benedictine institution, founded by Saint Adrián. The restoration and reconstruction was completed in 1945. Spend a night or a week at a monastery and come away filled with the essence of Spain, its history, art, architecture and local traditions Awaken each morning to church bells ringing out over sleepy villages and walled towns. Mingle with the townspeople at the daily market. Enjoy a glass of sangria in a friendly cafe. People watch from an atmospheric plaza. Leisurely stroll the medieval quarters and cobblestone streets. Admire centuries-old houses and palaces that stand side by side, as charming today as they were hundreds of years ago. Open to all, regardless of religious denomination, lodging at monasteries is an untouched Spanish adventure. A new approach to travel based on a centuries-old tradition of hospitality. Whether you prefer the sophistication of a city or the quaintness of the countryside, each of the monasteries described in this guide represents a singular experience in a unique setting. An experience that will linger long after you've returned home. But perhaps most remarkable is the low cost of accommodations and meals. It is extremely inexpensive to spend the night at a monastery. Rates range from a voluntary donation to an average of $20 per night. And many monasteries serve meals for just a few dollars more. Others have kitchens and dining rooms where guests may prepare their own food. What is common to each is cleanliness, graciousness, beauty and a sense of unhurried, uncrowded tranquility. Monasteries are an integral part of Spain's history and heritage and are emblematic of Spain's diverse culture. There are monastery locations to suit every traveler. Choose a location in a secluded village backdropped by snow-capped mountains. Reserve a room in an ancient city still enclosed by 13th century walls or a tiny hamlet overlooked by a massive fortress. There are monasteries on the enchanted Canary and Balearic islands and others just a stone's throw from a fabled beach. More than just lodging particulars, history-laced vignettes offer insight into the little known villages surrounding the monasteries, information not readily found in guide books. You'll learn about places unspoiled by tourism, places that have remained unchanged for centuries. What's in a name? Monastery, convent (hermitage, sanctuary), or casa, what's the difference? Historically, monasteries housed monks whereas nuns resided in convents. A casa is a guest house owned and generally managed by an order. Over the centuries, much has changed and the gender of the order in residence and its designation as monastery or convent is no longer gender specific. Monastic orders have traditionally offered hospitality to travelers. This book introduces you to that remarkable travel resource and to a custom that allows you to immerse yourself in another time and place. One that only a handful of people have enjoyed. Staying at a monastery is a rewarding experience but it is important to remember that a monastery is not a hotel and should be regarded accordingly. Lodging in Spain's Monasteries was researched through personal interviews with each institution. The monasteries described in Section One offer hospitality to all visitors. The information necessary to plan a trip is included: rates, address, telephone, fax (and where available, email address and website), contact person and description of accommodations. A sample reservation letter in Spanish and English will help you make your travel arrangements. You can book reservations by letter but faxing and telephoning may prove more effective. When calling or faxing, be certain to take into account the time difference and avoid waking someone in the middle of the night. For those institutions that offer email portals, we suggest emailing your requests. Section Two is a listing of monasteries that offer hospitality to guests who would like to sample the religious life or experience a time of spiritual retreat. All pertinent contact information and special requirements are provided. ANDULUCíA Convento Inmaculada Concepción Clarisse Nuns The convent is quartered in Alhama, a pretty town on the route connecting Granada and Málaga. Sited at the foot of the Sierra de Almijara, it has wonderful views of the surrounding mountains. Founded in 1556, it is inhabited by a community of Clarisse nuns who were forced to leave their original convent during the religious suppressions. The nuns bought the complex from Franciscan monks who once lived there. During the Spanish Civil War of 1936-39, the building and church were nearly destroyed by a fire. Although the compound has been completely restored, its artwork and much of its originality were lost. "As a former Franciscan institution, it is all very simple," said one of the nuns. A picturesque spa town, Alhama de Granada (Al hamma means hot springs), is perched atop a deep, grassy-banked gorge. The town's center is of Muslim origin, its narrow, twisting streets constitute an engaging setting. Noteworthy architecture includes an Arab fortress, the Gothic-Isabelline style House of the Inquisition, the Renaissance structure of Pósito and an age-old synagogue. The 16th century Iglesia del Carmen is ornamented by fine stone carving; its terrace offers dramatic views of the terrain. A Roman bridge signals the turn to the spa and the locale of the Roman and Moorish baths where warm spring waters have been channeled since Roman times. The area above and west of the convent comprises numerous towns nestled between rolling hills and rivers, towns that perpetuate a rich historical heritage. Loja boasts a collection of remarkable monuments: Alcázaba fortress, the neoclassical Mausoleum of Narváez, the 16th century Gothic-Mudéjar Church of La Encarnación and the Church of San Gabriel. Loja is known as the city of water for its abundance of springs, fountains and pillars of great artistic merit. The town of Montefrio is defined by tiled rooftops and pretty, whitewashed houses running up to a steep crag. It is home to an Arab fortress and the dome-topped neoclassical Iglesia de la Encarnación. A couple of miles beyond town is Hipo-Nova (site of megalithic dolmens), the ruins of an Iberian acropolis and intriguing Visigoth tombs. Granada is thirty miles south of the convent. Its unique history has bestowed it with an harmonious grandeur embracing Moorish palaces and Christian Renaissance treasures. The Moors crossed the Strait of Gibraltar in 711 and settled in what was then a small Visigoth town on Alhambra Hill. They erected walls and laid the foundation for the prosperous civilization that followed. As the last Moorish kingdom on the Iberian peninsula, it possesses great symbolic value. The city has been shaped by its hills, where the old districts in the Albaycín and Alhambra were founded. They abound with quaint nooks and incredible landscapes. Majestically positioned in the foothills of the snowy Sierra Nevada, a mountain range of fourteen peaks more than 9,800' high, Granada is acclaimed for its Alhambra, citadel of the Moorish kings of Spain. A dominating force, the complex represents a true expression of the once flourishing culture and is considered the finest example of Moorish architecture in Spain. Comprised of two main parts, the Alcázaba and the Nasrid Palace, the Alhambra is enveloped by ramparts and towers. The palace is a structure of elegantly proportioned rooms and courtyards, its interior emblazoned with honeycomb and stalactite vaulting. The walls are covered with geometric designs of infinitesimal detail and intricacy executed in marble, alabaster, glazed tile and carved plaster. The halls and chambers surround a series of open courtyards including the Court of Lions where arcades rest on one hundred and twenty-four slender white marble columns. Once the harem, it was built by Muhammad V. A fountain at the center of its patio rests on twelve namesake marble lions. In the early 19th century while living in the palace, Washington Irving immortalized this Moorish jewel in his book, Tales of the Alhambra. The Generalife Gardens (Gardens of the Architect), country estate of the Nasrid kings, were begun in the 13th century. They are serenely beautiful and composed of patios, terraces and fountains, mature trees and exquisite flowers. The Patio de la Acequia, an enclosed oriental garden, is built around a central pool. A more modern garden, Jardines Altos, reveals a stairway of cascading waterfalls. The most representative of Moorish neighborhoods, the Albaycín occupies the hillside opposite the Alhambra. It personifies Granada's Moorish ancestry, with whitewashed alleys and hidden gardens. The area was once home to nearly three dozen mosques. During the course of many years, however, Christian churches were built over the sites. Few experiences can surpass the view from the Albaycín's hillside setting across to the Alhambra, a dazzling sight at sunset when the towers of the fortress glow red against the backdrop of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada. Across the Darro River and facing the Alhambra is Sacromonte Hill, a place honeycombed with caves still occupied by Granada's gypsies. At the very top of the hill is the Abadía del Sacromonte, a Benedictine monastery. Northeast of Granada are the towns of Guadix and Baza. Based on a high plateau between two mountain ranges, Guadix is one of the oldest settlements in Spain and is dominated by an 11th century Moorish castle. The landscape is marked by cave dwellings carved from the hills. In the Barrio de Santiago, many inhabitants still live in cave dwellings hewn from the local tufa. Outstanding monuments include the Mudéjar-inspired Iglesia de Santiago and the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque cathedral. Built between the 16th and 18th centuries on the foundation of an earlier mosque, the structure is underscored by a massive tower. Baza's Arab past is exemplified by its Alcázaba fortress, walls and baths. Traces of the old Jewish Quarter also remain. The town's Dama de Baza sculpture represents an example of Iberian culture during the 3rd and 4th centuries. Of particular interest: the Gothic church with a Plateresque façade by Diego de Siloé, the 16th century town hall and the Fountain of Caños Dorados. Another nearby region is Las Alpujarras, a medley of atmospheric towns and villages in a wildly beautiful realm on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada. Alpujarras' dwellings were first introduced to the region by Berber settlers. Unique examples of North African architecture, they are compact clusters of irregularly shaped houses, generally two-story cubic structures covered by a flat roof with distinctive protruding chimney pots. The Moors inhabited these enclaves until the beginning of the 17th century and their cultural and traditional imprint is still apparent. The Costa del Sol and the port town of Málaga are a short distance away. Prosperous since Phoenician times, Málaga is the second largest city in Andalucía. Although the town's cathedral was begun in the 16th century, construction continued for two hundred years, hence the hodgepodge of styles. The church is known as La Manquita (the one-armed) due to the fact that only the west tower was completed. The Museo de Bellas Artes exhibits paintings by Spanish artists such as Ribera, Murillo and Morales in addition to early sketches by Pablo Picasso. The Casa Natal de Picasso is headquarters for the Picasso Foundation and preserves a small sampling of his work. Málaga's immense Alcázaba was built in the 11th century and is characterized by a double wall and several towers. Among its treasures are a partially excavated Roman amphitheater and a museum which shelters Phoenician, Roman and Muslim relics. Directly behind the Alcázaba are the ruins of the Castillo de Gibralfaro, a 14th century Moorish fortress. Accommodations 20 beds in 1 triple, 1 quadruple, 3 single and 5 double rooms. There are 4 shared baths. Both men and women are welcome. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied on request. Meals Meals are not supplied with the lodging. Guests may use the kitchen and dining room. Cost of lodging Voluntary contribution. Products of the institution The nuns bake and sell a large variety of pastries to establishments outside the convent. On request, guests can also purchase them. Although the nuns live in seclusion, they pass the baked goods through a revolving door, a practice that allows them to talk to guests while maintaining their privacy. Special rules There is an 11:00 pm curfew. The convent is open year round. Directions By car: From Granada take route A329 west (becomes A92 west) to a left turn on route A335 south and then exit at Alhama. By train: Get off at Granada and take the bus to Alhama. Contact Encargada de la Hospedería Convento Inmaculada Concepción San Diego, 24 18120 Alhama de Granada (Granada), Spain Tel: 958/350207 Monasterio Purísima Concepción Trinitarian Nuns The monastery is in the center of Andújar, a small town thirty miles from Córdoba. Originally an Iberian settlement named Illiturgo, it was destroyed by Scipio during the Punic Wars. The monastery was founded in 1587 and has been inhabited by the Trinitarian sisters almost uninterruptedly since its inception. The only exception was a short period during the Civil War (1936) when the sisters were forced to leave. A very important date in the history of the monastery is 1680. At that time, Andújar suffered from an epidemic of cholera. According to tradition, one of the sisters had a vision of Mary who told her that in order to stop the epidemic, the clergy had to redeem itself. The "licentious" comedies represented in town had to be stopped. They were and shortly afterwards, the epidemic passed. Every year since then there has been a solemn procession to celebrate the Virgin on the date of the immaculate conception. "As the rules of our order dictate, the church and monastery are quite simple," said the Mother Superior. The exterior of the church is whitewashed and highlighted by yellowish stone decorations, typical colors of Andalucía. The interiors are adorned with a few images, the main one of the Virgin Mary by artist Duque Canedo. The monastery has undergone several renovations but has preserved its simplicity and peaceful atmosphere. Thirteen sisters inhabit the monastery. They are actively involved in cultural and charitable activities and also work with the prison of Jaen where they meet with the prisoners. Not far from the monastery is the Parque Natural de las Sierra Subbética. Composed of rugged limestone landscapes and karstic formations, the vegetation of the park includes evergreens on the south facing slopes and gall oaks on the northern flanks. The park encompasses the small towns of Priego, Rute and Zuheros. Priego is noted for its artistic and monumental heritage while Rute is known for anisettes and olive oils. A short distance from the village of Zuheros is the Cueva de los Murciélagos (Cave of Bats), an archaeological and speleological attraction. Group tours may be arranged. Nearby Córdoba grew along the banks of the Guadalquivir River. The old quarter spreads out north of the river and is crossed by a Roman bridge. An important part of the walled enclosure still stands, delineated by medieval Arab towers known as rondas. In its heyday, Córdoba was a city of more than half a million people. The long-time center of Moorish Spain, it once housed hundreds of mosques. The city's crowning jewel, however, is the Great Mosque or Mezquita. The focal point of historic Córdoba, it has been declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO. It was erected by emir al-Hakam II in 785 over a Visigoth basilica. In 848, a new minaret was added and in 961, the ground plan was extended. Artists from the orient decorated its mihrab, a niche that holds the kiblah or sacred stone. A sumptuously embellished hall, the mihrab features carved marble, stuccoes, mosaics and plaster walls dramatized by Moorish drawings and motifs. Undoubtedly though, the mosque's most elaborate artwork is epitomized by more than eight hundred and fifty delicate marble, granite and jasper columns and interwoven, double-tiered striped arches. The floor plan consists of nineteen naves holding two levels of arches; the first level constitutes horseshoe arches, the second semicircular ones. The elements come together to create an almost magical, maze-like interior. The district surrounding the mosque embraces a famous little alley known as Calljón de las Flores (Street of the Flowers). The call, one of the most evocative Jewish Quarters in Spain, begins at the northwestern section of the mosque on Calle Judíos. The district spreads out to the edge of the walls and to the Gate of Almodóvar. Once the heart of medieval Córdoba, it is a place of prodigious heritage. The atmosphere conserves the very essence of Andalusia in its whitewashed alleys, small squares and gardens. Its neighborhoods are filled with memorable architecture, accented by wrought ironwork, flower-bedecked courtyards and delicate archways. Set back from the street in a tiny courtyard is the synagogue, one of the oldest Jewish monuments in Spain. The interior of the 14th century structure contains Alhambra-style arabesques and Hebrew inscriptions. The Córdoban Jews lived in the area until the Catholic monarchy ordered their expulsion in 1492. The Plaza of Juda Levi marks the beginning of Abucassis, a street featuring the Plaza de Maimónides. A statue of the namesake Jewish philosopher commemorates the site of the house where he lived. Between the Jewish Quarter and the mosque is an area called "Quiet Córdoba," in reference to the writing by poet Antonio Machado. Its silent streets are defined by noble houses that reveal patio's abloom with flowers. The more modern part of the city and the essential heart of present-day Córdoba centers around the Plaza de las Tendillas and the 17th century Plaza de la Corredera, an arcaded square with a daily market. Accommodations 8 beds in two rooms, a double room and a dorm with 4/6 beds. The bath is shared. Both men and women are welcome. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied. A living room and small kitchen are available for guest use. Meals Meals are not supplied with the lodging. Guests are welcome to use the kitchen. Cost of lodging Voluntary contribution. Products of the institution The nuns decorate liturgic ornaments with golden embroidery. Special rules Curfew at 10:30 pm. Open year round. Directions By car: Andújar is north of Cordoba on the Madrid-Córdoba-Cadiz highway (N IV / E5). Exit at Adujar and ask directions to the monastery. By train: Get off in Madrid or Córdoba and take a bus to Andújar. Contact Call or write to Madre Superiora (preferably at the first phone number) Monasterio Purísima Concepción Granados, 1 23740 Andújar (Jaén), Spain Tel: 953/501681 - 953/519105 Fax: 953/501681 Website: inicia.es/de/trinitarias E-mail: monjas@teleline.es Monasterio Purísima Concepción Concepcionistas Franciscanas The monastery was originally founded by a group of twelve women from Lebrija. They had formed a community although they did not belong to any specific order. In 1518 a group of nuns from San Juan de la Palma, a monastery in Seville, joined the group and established the Franciscan monastery. During the religious suppressions, the sisters remained in residence, however, a small part of the building was set on fire. "The damage was small and nothing serious happened," said one of the nuns. Since the order lives in seclusion, the monastery is not open to visitors. "But guests can visit our church," said the Madre Hospedera. "It is a beautiful Baroque building with a central and two lateral retablos," she added. The sisters are renowned for their pastries and are particularly busy during the Christmas holidays. "Two months before Christmas, we have to stop taking orders, otherwise we would have too many to fill," said the madre. In addition to the hospitality offered to visitors throughout the year, the monastery is open to students and young women who work in Lebrija. The monastery is next to the Ayuntamiento (town hall) in the very heart of Lebrija, a walled town. Its church, Santa María de la Oliva, is a former mosque dating to the 12th century. The surrounding landscape is typically Andalusian, composed of round hills of almond trees and vineyards which produce Manzanilla, a type of sherry. Lebrija is well situated for touring the Pueblos Blancos, a route through fortified hilltop towns and villages amid a charming tangle of gorges, cork forests and vast rocky peaks. Framed by Moorish arches and draped in bougainvillea, these cliff-top towns are so named because they are whitewashed in the Moorish tradition. They retain an atmosphere reminiscent of the Muslim Middle Ages. One itinerary travels from Arcos de la Frontera to Gaucín, Jimena de la Frontera, Zahara de la Sierra, Setenil and Ronda. Arcos de las Frontera stands on the banks of the Guadalete River. Inhabited since the Roman era, the old town contains the Condes de Aguila Palace, once home to Muslim rulers. Other highlights include a ruined Moorish castle in Jimena de la Frontera, the Rock of Gibraltar and from Gaucín, the Rif Mountains of North Africa. Founded by Arabs in the 8th century, Zahara de la Sierra has been declared a national monument. Its mountainside setting is overseen by a castle. In the unusual town of Setenil, some of the streets are covered by rock overhangs. The gorge was carved from volcanic tufa rock by the Río Trejo. Ronda is considered one of the most dramatically sited cities in Spain. Enveloped by the Serranía de Ronda and perched on a rocky outcrop, Ronda exemplifies the quintessential mountain city. Straddling a steep limestone hollow, the old and new towns are divided by a precipitous gorge. The city's Moorish heritage is undeniable and distinguished by cobbled alleys, window grills and the whitewashed buildings. Although the Palacio Mondragón was rebuilt following the reconquest, its Islamic heritage is evident in the Moorish-inspired arcaded patio. Ronda is also the spiritual home of bullfighting. The Plaza de Toros was inaugurated in 1785 and continues its reputation as one of the most important bullrings in Spain. Lebrija is very near the Doñana National Park. Declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, it is the largest aviary reserve in Europe. Its richness is the result of excellent climactic conditions and strategic geographic location along bird migration routes. The reserve constitutes three ecosystems: sand dunes, pastures and swamps. Nearby Seville, capital of bullfighting in Spain, is on the plain of the Guadalquivir River. Although the Tartessians were the original founders of ancient Seville, it was the Moorish occupation of the Iberian peninsula from 711 to 1248 that left the most indelible mark. The monuments from that period represent the sum and substance of Andalusian culture. Murillo Gardens, named for the famous painter and native son, border the walls of the Alcázar. Sevillian in style, the gardens brim with arcades foliage and ceramic work and lead to the Barrio Santa Cruz, once the old Jewish Quarter. Ensconced in the historic center and still protected by walls, the neighborhood is underscored by symbolic whitewashed buildings and iron filigreed balconies. It is also the locale of the Gothic cathedral, one of the world's largest. Built on what was once a mosque, only two parts of the original structure remain: the Court of Oranges and the Giralda, a mosque tower and the city's most prominent monument. Its foundation is comprised of Roman stones carried from Itálica. The structure was continued in brick by the Almohades who decorated the façades with sebka (brick façades only occasionally broken by a diamond pattern) and poly-lobed horseshoe windows. Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, the cathedral was designed by Alonso Martinez, Simón de Colonia and Juan Gil de Ontañón and shelters five aisles in Gothic style with a large transept. The interior is extraordinarily rich and sustains many precious works of art: the sepulcher of Christopher Columbus, a choir with Mudéjar stalls, Baroque organ boxes and paintings by Murillo, Goya and Zubarán. The main chapel is adorned with an altarpiece and Plateresque grill. The royal chapel is executed in Plateresque style. Adjoining the cathedral is the Reales Alcázares, one of the oldest royal residences in Europe. Built in Moorish style on order of Pedro I, it rivals the Alhambra in its exquisite embellishments and grand halls. The location has been occupied by a series of buildings including a Roman acropolis, Paleochristian basilica, Visigothic structures and the first Moorish fortress of the 9th century. The neighborhood of San Bartolomé preserves the atmosphere of old Seville, an intricate network of narrow streets filled with well-preserved Arab and medieval buildings as well as palatial and religious constructions of the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. The church of Santa María La Blanca was built over the remains of an old synagogue. The interior displays creative Baroque plaster work by the Borja brothers. Nearby is the home of Miguel de Mañara, model for Don Juan, famous character of world literature. An impressive Renaissance building, its façade is arrayed with fresco paintings imitating brick surfaces. Just outside of Seville, in the town of Santiponce, stand the remains of the Roman city of Itálica. Founded by General Scipio, the city gave two emperors to Rome, Trajan and Hadrian. The area open to visitors includes the neighborhood built by Hadrian, a theater in the old center and a modern park surrounding the amphitheater. One of the largest of the Roman empire, the arena could hold 25,000 spectators. Accommodations 13 beds in single rooms, 2 of which have private baths. The others share 3 baths. Only women are welcome and extended visits are preferred. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied on request. Reading room, kitchen and laundry room. Meals Meals are not supplied with the lodging. Guests may use the kitchen. Cost of lodging $108.00 per month. Guests staying shorter periods: $6.00 per night. Products of the institution Large variety of pastries. The most famous are coronillas, almond paste confections. Special rules Guests are given a key to the guest house. Open year round. If there are no confirmed bookings, the guest house might be closed during the summer months for ongoing restoration. Directions By car: From Seville (heading south) or Cadiz (heading north) take highway A4 to route 471 and go west following the signs to Lebrija. By train: Get off at Lebrija. There are also buses from Seville and Cadiz. Contact Madre Hospedera Monasterio Purísima Concepción Antonio de Lebrija, 3 41740 Lebrija (Seville), Spain Tel: 95/5972165 Monasterio de la Purísima Concepción Clarisse Nuns The monastery is housed in a 17th century palace just outside the town of Marchena. "It is away from crowds and noise and ideal for those who need to relax or meditate," said the madre. Built in a solitary spot in 1624 by Duke Don Rodrigo Ponce de León and his wife the Duchess Doña Ana de Aragón, it was later donated to the Clarisse nuns. The change of ownership took place in 1631 after many requests by Madre María de Antigua. The palace conserves some fine works of art: drawings bestowed by the Duchess Ponce de León, 17th century wooden statues and a treasured 16th century organ. The church was erected in 1751 and is based on the design of Nicolas Carretero. It is enriched by 17th and 18th century paintings and a collection of engravings donated by Don Joaquin Ponce de León. There are minor retablos and a main one in traditional wooden form. Marchena is an attractive town of unspoiled charm, a town of artists, monuments and folklore. Many wall defenses dating from Roman times remain as part of the landscape. Moorish and Christian influences added at a later date are also obvious. The town's interesting works of art include a retablo by Alejo Fernández and a sculpture by Pedro Roldán harbored within the Gothic church of San Juan Bautista. Steeped in Moorish culture, the region of Andalucía stretches from the grand mountains of Sierra Morena in the north, west to the plains of the Guadalquivir Valley and south to the Costa del Sol. Considered by many to be the true heart of Spain, it was first occupied by the Moors in the 8th century. Its golden period occurred during the rule of the Nasrid Dynasty, from the early 13th century to the last part of the 16th. A short distance from the monastery, El Arahal is notable for its bleached white appearance and is home to a number of Baroque buildings including the Mudéjar-inspired church of La Victoria. At the center of Andalucía, Carmona was established by the Phoenicians. It later became an important Roman city as witnessed by the necropolis, a Roman burial ground discovered in 1881. The complex encompasses subterranean chambers and vestibules, pillars, domed ceilings and carved reliefs. Other noteworthy monuments include the Roman amphitheater and the ruins of the Alcázar Almohade. Towering above the town, the Moorish-inspired structure was once the residence of King don Pedro the Cruel. Carmona exudes the ambience of an Arab medina, its winding, cobbled streets offset by religious buildings and palaces. The old quarter was built on a hill and protected by Mudéjar walls. Its most beautiful gateway, Puerta de Sevilla, leads to a cluster of mansions (many built of brick and stone, a combination typical of Carmona), Mudéjar churches and picturesque squares. Considered the finest church in the city, Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor was erected in the 15th century on the site of a mosque whose patio still exists. At the border with the province of Córdoba stands Écija, city of sun and towers. Nicknamed the frying pan of Andalusia, it is known for very hot weather. Once a Phoenician and then a Roman settlement, the city maintains an assemblage of mosaics from Roman times. Its greatest glory was achieved during the 17th and 18th centuries when it acquired the name, "City of the Towers." Eleven Baroque towers remain, many lavishly ornamented with azulejos. Most were rebuilt after the earthquake of 1755. The palace of the Marqueses of Peñaflor ranks among the finest works of Andalusian Baroque. Highlighted by a pink marble doorway topped by twisted columns, the sumptuous façade is delineated by a wrought iron balcony. It houses an assortment of archaeological remains and Roman mosaics. The palace's museum showcases 18th century art and sculpture along with contemporary art and local traditional costumes. Once a key Roman garrison town, nearby Osuna is an appealing enclave of white houses with symbolic rejas over every window. A ducal village, it rose to prominence in the 16th century, the period in which its most important edifices were built. The Renaissance Colegiata de Santa María has Baroque reredos and paintings by José de Ribera; it contains the tombs of the Dukes of Osuna. Accommodations Hospedería Santa María has 1 single and 9 double rooms, all with private bath. Both men and women are welcome. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied. Meals Meals are offered only to guests on spiritual retreats. Cost of lodging To be determined when reservations are made. Products of the institution The nuns are renowned for their almond and honey pastries. Special rules Curfew at 11:30 pm. Directions By car: From Seville take A92 east to exit 49 (Marchena exit) and proceed north on A364 to Marchena (approximately 8 kms). Follow signs to the monastery. By train: Get off in Seville and take the local bus to Marchena. Contact Sor Magdalena or Sor Inmaculada (they speak English) Monasterio de la Purísima Concepción Calle Palacio Ducal, 9 41620 Marchena (Seville), Spain Tel/Fax: 95/4843983 Aragón Monasterio de San Esteban y San Bruno Dominican Nuns The monastery resides on the outskirts of Albarracín, considered one of the most beautiful villages of Spain. "The village, the landscape, the view... everything is so beautiful that it has been recognized as a UNESCO monument of worldwide interest," said one of the sisters. Founded in 1621 by a group of nuns from Daroca, the order has inhabited the monastery without interruption despite the turbulence of the 19th century. Since the nuns live in seclusion, the monastery cannot be visited, however, the church is open to guests. A Baroque structure, it contains a single nave with five altars. The 17th century retablo of the main altar displays paintings representing Saints Bruno and Esteban, Teresa de Ávila, Dominque and Catherine from Siena. Four of the altars are: Virgen de la Saleta (1872), Santo Domingo en Soriano (1657), Virgen del Rosario (18th century) and Virgen del Pilar (17th century). A niche along the right-hand side houses the fifth, the altar of San José, as well as a mannerist retablo of the 17th century. In Visigothic times, Albarracín was known as Santa María de Oriente. Founded in the first period of the Muslim conquest, it became the capital of a petty kingdom before falling to the Almoravids. It remained as such until the 14th century when it was incorporated into Aragón. Now protected as a national monument, the town is a jumble of cobbled lanes and walls that preserve a decidedly medieval atmosphere and style. A dramatic cliff above the Río Guadalaviar provides the ideal setting for the town's cluster of red brick buildings, many enhanced by verdant gardens. A number of half-timbered buildings have projecting balconies that lean at precarious angles and create an altogether alluring sight. The 16th century Renaissance church has a fine collection of Flemish tapestries. There is a legend with a romantic flavor concerning the town's Torre de Doña Blanca. The ghost of a beautiful princess is said to appear in the tower every full moon at midnight. The princess is dressed in white and comes to bathe in the Guadalaviar River. According to the tale, the young woman was in love with a Jewish man but their love was forbidden and she died from longing. In the mountains above town is the small summer resort of Bronchales. A ceramics factory of terra sigillata hispanica dating from the second century before Christ was discovered in its vicinity. Orihuela del Tremedal is another mountain village in a milieu of pine forests. It conserves an 18th century parish church and many homes embellished with Renaissance grills and wrought ironwork. The entire region is a landscape of meadows, canyons, woodlands, prehistoric caves and sparkling water oases. Teruel, the provincial capital, is approximately thirty-six miles southeast of the monastery. Of Iberian origin, it later became a Moorish stronghold. Despite the reconquest, the Moors maintained a mosque until the early part of the 16th century. Teruel also had a large Jewish community which lived in peaceful coexistence with both the Christians and Moors. Sprawled on a hill and beset by gorges, the silhouette of the city is clearly marked by its Mudéjar architecture and a gracefulness that reflects Hispano-Muslim style. The Teruel Moriscos, (baptized Moors), enriched the cityscape with beautiful Mudéjar buildings. The old quarter is home to the wedge-shaped Plaza del Torico and is near the five remaining Mudéjar towers. The 12th century church of San Salvador is an ornate, striking Mudéjar monument, its tower adorned with intricately patterned brickwork, checkered tile insets and a crenelated top. Representing one of the most typical pictures of Teruel, the tower stands at the end of a narrow street and has an arch with cross vaulting through which one can walk. Another fine specimen of Mudéjar architecture, the church of San Martín dates to the 12th century and is accented by multi-patterned brickwork studded with blue and green ceramics. According to legend, the last two towers built in Teruel were constructed by rival builders who wanted to marry the same girl. Omar and Abdala built the towers in a very short time and took care to hide their work from Zoraida, the girl they were pursuing. When the scaffolding was removed, it was discovered that both were equally grand but Omar's, the tower of San Martín, was leaning. The Plaza de Carlos Castell is the heart of town and home to the Fuente del Torico and the Catedral de Teruel, a landmark structure distinguished by a bell tower with glazed bricks and green and black azulejos. Its interior has a coffered ceiling with scenes of contemporary and court life. The carpentry and assembly of wooden coffered ceilings was a specialty of Mudéjar artists. The cathedral shelters the tombs of the "Lovers of Teruel," star-crossed romantics immortalized by several Spanish poets. Legend holds that in the 13th century, Diego Garcia de Marchilla wanted to marry Isabella de Segura but could not because her father preferred to find a rich husband for his daughter. Although Diego eventually made his fortune, as fate would have it, when he returned to claim his beloved, it was on the very day she married another. Diego died of a broken heart; Isabella died the very next day. The lovers lie in a chapel attached to the church. The site has become a popular place for newlyweds to visit. Every February 14th, a festival takes place in honor of the ill-fated pair. Accommodations 12 beds in 1 apartment with 4 bedrooms, private bath and kitchen plus 3 double and 2 single rooms with shared bath (all rooms have private sink). Both men and women are welcome. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied. Meals Meals are not provided with the lodging. Guests staying in the apartment may use the kitchen or dine in nearby restaurants. Cost of lodging Provisional cost: $24.00 per room/per night. Price of the apartment will be arranged upon arrival. Products of the institution The nuns embroider upon request. Directions By car: From Teruel take route 234 North. After about 15 kms, turn left following the signs to Albarracín. By train/bus: Get off at Teruel. There is a daily bus to Albarracín leaving at 3:30 pm. Contact Madre Hospedera Monasterio de San Esteban y San Bruno Camino del Cristo, 15 44100 Albarracín (Teruel), Spain Tel/ Fax: 978/710007 Monasterio de Santa María de Casbas Cistercian Nuns The monastery is in Casbas de Huesca, a small village at the foot of the Sierra de Guara. "The area of the Sierra is beautiful and many people come here for excursions. They especially enjoy the river which is an hour walk from us. The setting is particularly pretty and so peaceful," said one of the sisters. The complex encompasses a Romanesque church; the monastery houses a Gothic cloister. Monasterio de Santa María de Casbas was founded in 1173 by Doña Oria who originally wanted to turn the place into a mausoleum for her family. When her husband died, she retreated into the monastery and became a nun. The surrounding area is called Zona de Palacio and marks the place where Doña Oria once lived. "We host all kinds of guests, whether they seek a spiritual retreat, a yoga workshop or a pilgrimage. We prefer not to make distinctions since everyone who comes is searching for something special," the sister added. In addition to managing the guest houses, the nuns make and sell homemade pastries and jams. Nearby Huesca, capital of Alto Aragón, is situated at the foot of the steepest part of the central Pyrenees. Delineated by fir, beech and hazel woodlands, glacial lakes, green meadows and evocative castle ruins, the scenery is backdropped by lofty mountains. Known to the Romans as Osca and to the Moors as Washka, the city was founded in the 1st century BC and was a Moorish stronghold until the 8th century. In 1096, it was captured by Peter of Aragón and remained the region's capital until 1118. A typical Pyrenean town, it sprawls on the slopes of a hill above the Río Isuela and boasts a splendid Gothic cathedral highlighted by a Mudéjar-style wooden gallery and octagonal tower. Work on the cathedral began at the end of the 13th century during the reign of Jaime I. The door in the main façade is flanked by fourteen life-sized statues. The interior is almost square in design with three naves, a transept, five chapels in the shape of an apse and a rose window in the apex of the arch. The church has an alabaster retablo by Damián Forment, master sculptor. The Renaissance Ayuntamiento (town hall) is an Aragónese gem offset by graceful gable ends. It displays La Campana de Huesca, a 19th century painting depicting the town's most memorable and grisly event. Known as the Bell of Huesca, it shows the beheading of a group of rebellious nobles in the 12th century by King Ramiro II. Huesca's oldest church, Iglesia de San Pedro El Viejo, was built on the remains of a Benedictine abbey. King Ramiro II and his brother are buried within. An elegant 12th century Romanesque structure, it has a remarkable cloister with exquisitely carved capitals. A short distance east of town is the village of Alquézar. Imbued with Moorish origins, it lays claim to a spectacular setting which includes a well-preserved 12th century castle and 16th century collegiate church. The church crowns a hill rising above the unusual rock formations of the canyon of the Río Vero. The ruined walls were part of the original alcázar and the root of the village's name. The Castle at Monzón, 42 miles from Huesca, has an unmistakable appearance. The complex which dates from the 10th and the 12th centuries stands on a rugged base above the small village of Monzón. Several massive, bare walls follow each other in picturesque rows, encircling the ascending slope on the way to the fortress. The keep is of Arab provenance while the church is Romanesque. The large towers exhibit Arab and Gothic features. Portions of the interior were restored in simple Renaissance style. The chapel is a two-story design with a high vault; the ashlars are engraved with symbols. Beginning in the 12th century, the castle became the property of the Knights Templars, a brotherhood of monks turned soldiers. The power of the group grew and in the 14th century, Spain outlawed the order. The nights refused to disband and a siege began. It took several months for the king's army to regain control. Accommodations There are 2 types: 1) Inside the monastery: 28 bedrooms including single, double and triple rooms (some rooms have up to 8 beds). Baths are shared. 2) Outside the monastery: There is a hostel for large groups with 28 beds in large dorms. Baths are shared. Both men and women are welcome. Amenities Towels and linens supplied. Meeting room. Meals Breakfast, lunch and dinner are provided with the lodging. Cost of lodging Voluntary contribution. Products of the institution The nuns produce a large variety of pastries. The most typical are suspiros, a meringue-type confection cooked in the oven for five hours. The nuns also produce jam. All products are sold in a small shop on the monastery grounds. Special rules Guests are provided with keys. Maximum stay 8/10 days. Directions By car: From Huesca or Lérida take route 240 and exit heading north at Angues. Follow signs to Casbas de Huesca. By train/bus: Get off at Huesca and take the local bus to Casbas. There is one in the morning and one late afternoon. Or take the bus to Angues; there are several during the day. Once in Angues, call the monastery and they'll arrange transportation. Contact Madre Hospedera Angelina Monasterio de Santa María de Casbas 22142 Casbas de Huesca (Aragón), Spain Tel: 974/260396 Fax: 974/260537 Email: casbas@ran.es Monasterio de Nuestra Señora del Olivar Padres Mercedarios Surrounded by woodlands, the monastery occupies an elevated position in a valley near El Olivar River. Following the Miracle of the Virgin of the Olive Grove, the first building was erected at the beginning of the 13th century. According to tradition, a shepherd named Pedro Nobés witnessed a burning olive tree with an image of Mary inside the fire. Upon hearing of the vision, Don Gil, the nobleman he worked for, built a small hermitage and invited the Order of Mercy to take up residence and become guardians of the image. By the 14th century, the first monastery was built to the west of the original hermitage. All that remains at the original site is the round well of the central patio. The existing monastery was built between 1627 and 1632 under the direction of Father Juan Cebrián of the Order of Mercy. Almost square in shape, the cloister joins the south wall of the church. The two-story structure is enhanced with a small central patio. The lower cloister has four spacious wings formed by the four sides of the building. The tall ceilings are lavishly decorated with cannon vaults supported by Roman arches and twenty cross-shaped pillars. The inner vault of each wing is ornamented by single bands and plaster molding. The outer vault is embellished with rosettas and geometric figures. There is a cupola at each end of the four corners that seems to anchor the soaring vaults to the floor. The lower cloister is a place of harmony, pure lines and aesthetic pleasure. It leads to various areas of the monastery: the doorway and entrance hall; a grand stairway to the upper cloister; the Sala Capitular (conference room) and the old library. The coat of arms of Archbishop Juan Cebrián is displayed over the main door of the Sala. The De Profundis room is on one side, so called because it was where the religious recited the 129th Psalm for their deceased brethren before entering the adjoining refectory. Brilliant white plaster walls define the upper cloister where hallways lead to the guest rooms and to the rooms of the monastic order. The ceiling is a series of beautifully curved lines with multiple barrel vaults separated by wooden beams. The uneven stone-floored patio is softly illuminated by an ochre-toned light that streams through twelve sets of windows. The west corridor leads to the private chapel; the north corridor is the old doorway to the choir of the church. The old-world town of Alcañiz is not far from the monastery. Situated on the Río Guadalope, the town is enclosed by hills. Home to the 12th century Castel de los Calatravos, the cloister, chapel and keep are all that remain from the original construction. The chapel contains the tomb of master artist Damián Forment. The keep and great hall are ornamented with 14th century frescoes, most depicting scenes of chivalry. The castle has been restored and is now a parador. The heart of town is the Plaza de España, site of the Ayuntamiento (town hall) whose Renaissance façade incorporates the town's coat of arms. The elaborate 15th century Lonja (commodities exchange) is characterized by lacy Gothic arches. Not far from the square is the 18th century Santa María la Mayor with a Baroque portal and Gothic tower. Its interior is spotlighted by a grand high altar and domed chapels. The monastery is close to a region called El Maestrazgo, a milieu of high mountains, deep gorges and stark countryside. Villages and hamlets are tucked here and there throughout the landscape. Beceite is typically Aragónese. Peñarroya de Tastavins is known as the Albarracín of Lower Aragón because of its beauty. Rubie los de Mora is completely girdled by a wall, its stone and timber houses underscored by coats of arms. Medieval Mora de Rubielos claims a 12th century Gothic collegiate church, its chapels adorned with azulejos. Accommodations The guest quarters were built during the reconstruction of the monastery. There are 38 rooms with private baths. Women, men, families and groups are welcome. For those who prefer camping, there is a well-equipped campsite. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied. There is a swimming pool and soccer field. Meals All meals are included with the lodging. Cost of lodging $23.00 per person, includes full board. Directions By car: From Zaragoza take route N232 south towards Alcañiz to route N211 west to Gargallo. From there follow the directions to Estercuel (10 kms) and then to the monastery (less than 2 kms). By train: Get off in Alcañiz and take the local bus to Estercuel. Phone the monastery from Estercuel to arrange transportation. Contact Padre Hospedero Monasterio de Nuestra Señora del Olivar 44558 Estercuel (Teruel), Spain Tel: 978/752300 Fax: 978/727009 e.mail: elolivar@arrakis.es website: http://www.arrakis.es/~elolivar Monasterio de Santa Cruz Benedictine Nuns The Benedictine community inhabiting the monastery is among the oldest in Spain. It was established in Santa Cruz de la Seró in the 10th century and transferred to Jaca in 1555. The monastery is an active institution. The nuns manage a kindergarten and boarding school for girls during the winter; in summer, they provide a residence for women. The structure of the monastery is an unusual one partly built on the walls of the city. The church is Romanesque in style and contains a sarcophagus of the Infanta, daughter of King Ramiro I. Located approximately eighteen miles from France, the origins of Jaca date to the 2nd century AD. In the 8th century, the town withstood invasion by the Moors, an act of bravery honored every year in a popular festival. In 1035, Jaca became the first capital of the Kingdom of Aragón. The architecture of the 11th century Cathedral of Jaca combined technical knowledge with a creative freshness that greatly impacted Spanish Romanesque art. The Muslim-influenced motif eventually extended through the region and beyond the borders of the Pyrenees as a characteristic Roman theme. The original design was a basilica with three naves, a transept and three apses. In the transept, a dome rests upon four arches. The rolled modillions and cornices in the dome exemplify the highly novel design elements that came to symbolize Spanish Romanesque style. Although the structure has undergone many renovations, traces of its underlying majesty are visible on the restored south porch and doorway. They are represented by carvings depicting biblical scenes of Abraham's sacrifice and King David playing his harp. Romanesque and Gothic frescoes as well as sculptures rescued from abandoned churches are preserved within the cloisters. The Parque Nacional de Ordesa lies just east of Jaca. A dramatically rugged landscape of woodlands, waterfalls, glacial canyons and limestone cliffs and gorges, it stretches over 37,000 acres in the very heart of the Pyrenees. The environs include the Pineta Cirque with its hanging glaciers and the deep karst gorges of Anisclo and Escuain. Torla, a small stone village at the gateway to the park, boasts an exceptional setting; its buildings are backdropped by the snow-covered slopes of Mondarruego. South of Jaca, the Church of the Loarre Castle was clearly influenced by the Cathedral of Jaca. Constructed on a mountain slope, a crypt overcomes the difference in levels. The church has a single nave, its apse underscored by blocked arcading and seven windows. The structure forms part of the Loarre Castle-Abbey, the oldest and perhaps most remarkable citadel in Spain. It was erected on the site of an Iberian fortress and built in the purest Romanesque style combining military and religious concepts. Sitting in the middle of the Sierra de Gratal, the castle was designed to blend with and be concealed by the rocky outcrop on which it was built. Depending on the time of day and the light, the complex can seemingly disappear from sight. From its lofty perch, views of the great plain of Aragón are visible in every direction. Built by Sancho Ramírez, a noble king of Navarra, the fortress has been restored to its former glory. The civil halls, cells and soldiers' quarters blend into each other and provide insight into the way the monks, nobles and soldiers lived together at that time. The castle rooms are not large, excepting the famous Torre de la Reina (Queen's Tower). Rectangular in design, it has an interesting gallery of windows including one with Byzantine capitals and double arches. The tower is complemented by Mozarabic adornments and reliefs. The Romanesque chapel is reached by a monumental staircase ornamented with alabaster windows. Pathways and steep stairs wind around the castle's towers, keep and dungeons. The walk that surrounds the keep is delineated by statues representing Spanish medieval sculpture including the Virgin and the Savior, symbols of the apostles and a group of angels. Accommodations The hospedería is open during July and August; exact opening and closing dates vary each year. Since lodging dates are limited, reservations must be made well in advance. Only women are permitted. 65 beds in single and double rooms, most with private bath. Amenities Towels and linens are provided. Meals All meals are included with the lodging. Cost of lodging Provisional cost only, $30.00 per person, all meals included. Special Rules Curfew at 10:30 pm. Directions By car: From Pamplona take route 240 to Jaca. By train: Get off in Jaca and walk to the monastery. Contact Encargada de la hospedería Monasterio de Santa Cruz Mayor, 52 22700 Jaca (Huesca), Spain Tel: 974/360592 Monasterio Nuestra Señora de Monlora Hermandad de Nuestra Señora de Monlora Enveloped by a verdant woodland, the monastery occupies a mountaintop location. Founded at the end of the 17th century by the Benedictine Order on the site of the Shrine of Nuestra Señora de Monlora, it is about two miles from the small village of Luna. A Gothic hermitage is all that endures of the very first settlement. The remainder of the complex is Baroque in style. The institution is presently in transition; the monks left in October 1999 and temporarily entrusted the monastery to the brotherhood of Our Lady of Monlora. Between the monastery and Zaragoza is the Cartuja de Aula Dei, home to Goya murals. In 1774, thanks to his friendship with the then Prior Pedro Salcedo, Goya painted fourteen scenes of the Virgin Mary for a Spanish church used by sequestered Carthusian monks. Until recently only three women, one a Spanish princess, had seen the paintings. In November 1998, Queen Sofia led a contingent of fifty women on an unprecedented visit to see the murals. To protect the privacy of the monks, they were able to enter the church through a tunnel underneath the monastery and emerged in a single-nave church where the Goyas are displayed. Guided tours are available by prior appointment only. The demand is so enormous that arrangements for the tour must be made years in advance. Tel: (34) 976-714-934, Fax: (34) 976-714-808. Francisco de Goya served his apprenticeship and painted his first works in Zaragoza. His paintings are exhibited in the Basilica of Nuestra Señora del Pilar and the Provincial Museum of Fine Arts. Many of the cities, towns and villages of Aragón lay claim to the most characteristic forms of Mudéjar art. Throughout the countryside, numerous Christian churches were built by the Mudéjars or Moriscos as they came to be known when they were forcibly converted to Christianity. Between the 12th and 16th centuries, extensive Mudéjar communities existed and bequeathed a legacy of bricklaying and decorative arts. The brick bell-towers, often festooned with glazed ceramic tiles, are peculiar to the region. At one time, nearby Zaragoza claimed more than fifty brick towers. Positioned along the Ebro River, the town perpetuates a rich historical and artistic heritage, the result of more than two thousand years of existence. Iberians, Romans, Moors, Jews and Christians all left their mark. Zaragoza, the region's capital, is one of the great monumental cities of Spain and home to the Baroque Basilica of Nuestra Señora del Pilar, a place of pillars and spires sited on the Plaza del Pilar. During the 11th century, at the time of the taifas, or petty kingdoms, La Aljafería was built. An extraordinary example of Moorish architecture, the palatial retreat was defended by twenty-seven battlemented keeps. Its capitals and decorative motifs are outstanding, particularly those of the mihrab and Hall of Marble. In the 15th century, the palace underwent repairs and enlargements which included coffered ceilings. Zaragoza is also home to the churches of San Pedro and San Pablo, distinguished by square-shaped bell towers with rhomboid adornments. Octagonal in shape and horizontally divided by decorative bands, the towers are classic representations of this type of construction. Accommodations 15 single and 3 double rooms. All rooms have a sink; bathrooms are shared. Both men and women are welcome. The monastery is open year round. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied and a laundry service is available. There are two dining rooms that can be used as meeting rooms and a TV room. Meals Breakfast is included with the lodging. Other meals can be taken at a nearby restaurant. Cost of lodging To be determined. Products of the institution The monks prepare and sell assorted pastries. Directions By car: From Zaragoza or Huesca take route N330-E7 which connects the two cities. Get off at the exit to Monasterio de Monlora. By train/bus: Get off at Zaragoza and take a bus to Luna. Once in Luna call the monastery and they will arrange transportation. Contact Anyone who answers the phone Monasterio Nuestra Señora de Monlora 50610 Luna (Zaragoza), Spain Tel: 976/689305 Convento de Nuestra Señora de Valentunaña Augustinian Friars The monastery lies on the outskirts of Sos del Rey Católico, a medieval town and birthplace of Ferdinand of Aragón (hence the town's royal name). Also known as el Rey Católico, the Catholic King, Ferdinand unified Spain by marrying Isabel of Castilla. According to legend, the story of the shrine began in the 13th century when the image of Mary appeared upon an oak tree. Since the belief of the local people was not strong enough, the Virgin left an additional sign of her presence by making a miraculous spring appear. The spring is still known as the Fuente de la Virgen, Spring of the Virgin. At that time, the shrine constituted only a hermitage, the Casa de la Virgin. The sanctuary and convent were added at a later date by Carmelite monks. The complex suffered during the uncertainty of the 19th century when the monks were forced to leave. After their second departure in 1835, they never returned. The convent was abandoned for decades. In 1902, it was sold to the Augustinian Order which has remained in residence ever since. The stone exterior of the 18th century church and convent are sober affairs. The interior of the church is enriched with nine Baroque retablos. The most remarkable one is above the main altar. There are two lateral retablos attributed to Francisco Pejon, a famous local sculptor. Solemn celebrations of the Virgin of Valentunaña take place on September 8th and on the Sunday and Monday of Pentecost. At that time, the entire village celebrates their patroness during the Fiesta del Convento. Sos del Rey Católico is one of the Cinco Villas (five villages) recognized by Felipe V for their loyalty during the War of the Spanish Succession. The village is surrounded by imposing walls built with seven entryways; its houses are accented by Romanesque and Gothic windows. Palacio de Sada, the king's birthplace, is on a small square in the midst of narrow, cobbled lanes. An elegant stone mansion with a lovely inner courtyard, the palace harbors artwork and artifacts related to the king. The plain of las Cinco Villas is crossed by the mountain ranges of Uncastillo, Sos, Luesia and Biel. In Roman times, it was considered the granary of the region because of the abundance of cereal crops. Sos del Rey Católico was its capital. Several important fortresses attest to the village's one-time prominence. These citadels defended the Kingdom of Aragón from invasions of the Navarrese. Each of the Cinco Villas has something special to recommend it. Tauste has a splendid 13th century Mudéjar church. Ejea de los Caballeros shelters a Romanesque church. In Sádaba, there is a 16th century church built in Aragónese-Gothic style. Uncastillo is a picturesque hodgepodge of steep streets and alleys, its homes marked with shield-shaped surfaces containing coats of arms. The arcaded Plaza del Campo is the heart of town and home to the Romanesque Santa María la Mayor. Accommodations 34 single and double rooms with private bath. Both men and women are welcome. Closed at Christmas. During the month of July, the hospedería is usually booked. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied. Meals All meals can be supplied on request. Cost of lodging Provisional: $24.00 per person with full pension. Special rules Punctuality at meals. Directions By car: From Pamplona take N240 south and exit at A127 following the signs to Sanguesa and then to Sos del Rey Católico. Once in Sos, follow the signs to the Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de Valentunaña. By train: Getting to Sos by public transportation is not easy. There is only one bus from Zaragoza, leaving at 7:00 am. It is best to get off at Pamplona and take a bus to Sanguesa and a taxi to Sos. Contact Padre Prior Convento de Nuestra Señora de Valentunaña 50680 Sos del Rey Católico (Zaragoza), Spain Tel/Fax: 948/888072 Email: oarsos@teleline.es Asturias Santuario del Acebo Order Property of the Parish of Cangas de Narcea In a milieu of mountains near the Parque Natural de Somiedo, the Santuario of Acebo occupies a lofty position in Cangas del Narcea, the largest town in southwest Asturias. The history of the shrine began in medieval times when a small chapel dedicated to the Virgin was erected. According to legend, a paralytic woman suddenly started to walk. The miraculous event led to the construction of a larger church completed in 1590. The church remains visible today. "It is one of the most important sites of devotion in the entire region," said the priest in charge of the shrine. The church and main retablo are Baroque. The venerated image of Mary in the first chapel is Romanesque in design. The hospedería is now managed by lay personnel. Nearby Luarca is a little village along Spain's northern coast. It lies on both banks of the Río Negro and is spanned by several bridges. The core of the town is filled with 18th and 19th century houses separated from the sea by a hill. A quaint cemetery and church are quartered on a clifftop headland overlooking the town. East of Luarca is Cabo Vidio and wonderful views of the sea and Cabo de Peñas. This part of Asturias is near the land of the cowherders, a group of people who centuries ago immigrated from northern Italy. Once each year a cowherder wedding is held according to the rituals of the past. Centuries-old dances are performed to the beat of a square tambourine and payetchas (a pan with a long handle that is hit with a key). Tineo, another nearby town, boasts a number of medieval churches and a 13th century parish church. A short distance from Tineo is the hamlet of Llamas del Mouro, home to potters of Celto-Iberian ancestry. The artisans are known for their shiny black ceramic jugs and bowls. As they have for centuries, the potters fire the pieces in circular ovens buried in the earth. Accommodations A total of 14 single, double and triple rooms, each with private bath. Both men and women are welcome. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied. Meals All meals can be supplied with the lodging in the restaurant annexed to the hospedería. Cost of lodging Provisional cost per double room: $22.00, meals excluded. Open year round. During the winter, the hospedería hosts only groups of 10 or more. Directions By car: From Oviedo take N634 west until La Espina and turn left on AS15 (also marked as C630). Follow the signs to Cangas del Narcea. Once there follow the signs to the Santuario del Acebo. By train: Get off at Oviedo and take a bus to Cangas de Narcea. From there take a taxi to the santuario (there is no public transportation). Contact Anyone who answers the phone Santuario del Acebo 33800 Cangas de Narcea (Asturias), Spain Tel: 98/5810466 Casa De Ejercicios Diocesana Esclavas del Corazón de María Built in 1954 and operated by a community of nuns, the casa is annexed to the legendary Sanctuary of Covadonga, one of the most revered shrines in Spain. "The casa is a beautiful building; people say it looks like a parador," said one of the sisters. Reached via a beautiful road through a mountain valley, Covadonga is regarded as the birthplace of Spain. It is known for its glacial lakes and the Virgin's Cave. The sanctuary was built after a miracle which helped King Pelayo defeat the Arabs in 722. According to legend, a small group of soldiers led by Pelayo, a Visigothic nobleman, faced the Arabs armed only with stones. The Moorish army shot arrows at the Christian soldiers but the arrows turned back towards the Moors and in doing so, allowed Pelayo to win. The Christian armies, strengthened by the victory, officially began the reconquest of the Spanish peninsula and Pelayo became king of Asturias. A statue of the warrior with the Asturian cross above his head stands before the classically beautiful Neo-Romanesque basilica on the site of his victory. Not far from the casa is Santa Cueva. An ancient cave, the Santina, (statue of the Virgin), was worshipped here before construction of the shrine. Reached through a tunnel, the 8th century cave lies high up on the rock face and overlooks a pool and waterfall. The remains of King Pelayo, his wife and sister are believed to reside in the tiny chapel. The casa and shrine are situated in a spectacularly beautiful region of Spain, the Parque Nacional of the Picos de Europa. Tradition holds that this mountain chain was named by sailors who, when seeing the peaks from a distance, knew they were close to home. The park straddles three regions: Asturias, Cantabria and Castilla - León and is the largest national park in Europe. The Picos is a wild and impressive range of lofty mountains, perpetual snow, lakes and narrow passes. One of the highest summits is Naranjo de Bulnes; the heart of the massif soars to over 8,000'. Within the parkland, Fuente Dé Cable Car whisks visitors to a rocky plateau and outstanding views of the pinnacles and valleys. The Cares River has cut a deep gorge in the heart of the Picos. A footpath follows the gorge on a scenic journey through tunnels and over high bridges offering vistas of gorges and precipices, green valleys and lush meadows. Stark, limestone cliffs rise abruptly over dense woodlands of beech, oak and birch. The cows and goats that graze in the pasturelands produce the famous Cabrales blue cheese. It is the chamois, however, that is the park's most representative animal. Heading to the coast is the harbor town of Llanes, where traces of the ancient walls can still be seen. The old part of town is occupied by the Plaza del Cristo Rey, locale of the 13th century Iglesia de Santa María. Of architectural interest, the portal is defined by interlaced arcading and offset by a 16th century Flemish altarpiece. The town also shelters a pretty little beach popular with vacationers. The small town of Cangas de Onís is close to Covadonga. More than 2,000 years ago Celts inhabited the area. A gateway to the Picos de Europa, Cangas de Onís became the first capital of the Asturian kings. At the beginning of the reconquest, it served as the first Spanish court. An elegant medieval arched bridge and the 15th century Ermita de la Santa Cruz are monumental highlights. The church's tiny chapel displays an engraved Bronze Age dolmen - a Neolithic tomb consisting of a large, flat stone laid across upright stones with carved drawings. About three miles east of town is the Cueva del Buxu, a cave containing rare Paleolithic paintings and engravings. Situated in the Valle de Liébana, riverside Potes is underscored by balconied houses. Its main square reveals the 15th century Torre del Infatado, now the Town Hall. Accommodations 50 beds in 30 single and double rooms with private bath (rooms have been recently renovated). Both men and women are welcome. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied. Meeting rooms are available for guest use. Meals All meals can be supplied on request (full pension, half pension or breakfast only). Cost of lodging $30.00 per night, full pension. Special rules Curfew at 11:00 pm. Open year round. Directions By car: From Oviedo take route E70 to Arriondas, exit and follow the signs to Covadonga. By train: Get off at Oviedo and take a bus to Covadonga. Contact Anyone who answers the phone Casa De Ejercicios Diocesana 33589 Covadonga (Asturias), Spain Tel: 98/5846030 Casa de Espiritualidad Santa María del Aramo Esclavas del Sagrado Corazón In a tranquil site just outside the town of Oviedo, the Casa de Espiritualidad possesses a beautiful panorama of the Sierra del Aramo Mountains. "It is an enchanting spot. At this very moment, for example, I can see the mountains backdropped by a stunning blue sky dotted with white clouds," said the sister in charge of hospitality. "The truth is that people are always contented with their stay at our casa. The mountains near the house are laced with hiking trails and pleasant walks," she continued. The casa was founded in 1984 by a group of nuns from Oviedo. It was built with the precise mission of hosting groups seeking spiritual retreats. When the house is not so occupied, the nuns are happy to host guests merely seeking a peaceful sojourn. "The casa has been recently enlarged and renovated and is particularly comfortable," she added. Asturias stretches along a small section of the Cantabrian coastline between the Eo and Deva rivers. The inland ridges of the Cantabrian Mountains comprise its southernmost boundaries. These geographical characteristics and the rainy coastal climate have made Asturias a natural paradise filled with flora and fauna. Enclosed by the foothills of the Cantabrian Mountains, Oviedo is the region's capital and is located more or less at its geographical center. The city is noted for its pre-Romanesque monuments and great cathedral, the Basilica del Salvador. Situated on the Plaza de Alfonso II, the cathedral dates to the 14th century and is considered one of the finest examples of Spanish Flamboyant Gothic, a design characterized by ornate tracery forms. The church is home to the tombs of Asturian kings and is distinguished by a high square tower with delicate stone lattice work. The oldest part of the church is the east end; the chapter house and cloister were begun in the 13th century. Worthy of special mention is the main retablo in the Capilla Mayor. Dating from 1511, it was produced by Giraldo de Bruselas and Juan de Balmeseda. Visigothic culture and Asturian or Ramirense art (after King Ramiro) constitute a prelude to Romanesque style. In 1985, UNESCO declared several of the city's post-Visigothic, pre-Romanesque churches among the finest architecture produced in 9th century Christian Europe. Now protected as part of the "Patrimony of Humanity," the oldest and largest, San Julián de Los Prados, was built by Alfonso el Castro. A simple, solid design with three square apses, it is noted for frescoes that once covered the interior. Many churches are scattered in the hills of Asturias including the picturesque Santa María de Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo. Halfway up the mountain on the slopes of the Sierra de Naranco, these pre-Romanesque structures offer excellent views. Both were built by Alfonso el Castro's successor, Ramiro I. Santa María's golden stone structure is supported by unusual flat buttresses and flanked by two porches. It has a barrel-vaulted hall on the main floor and arcaded galleries at either end. San Miguel was built on a more traditional cruciform design. Its interior is highlighted by typical Asturian twisted columns. Throughout the region surrounding Oviedo, many noble palaces were built by the so-called indianos - people who made their fortunes in the New World. Not far from Oviedo is Avilés, a large industrial town with a well-preserved historic center and two plazas: the arcaded Plaza España and the diminutive Plaza San Nicolás. The Iglesia of San Nicolás de Bari contains a 14th century chapel. The Iglesia de San Francisco is decorated with frescoes and marked by a Renaissance cloister. Two interesting sites are just north of town: a lovely beach at Salinas and an old lighthouse at the entrance to the river at San Juan de Nieva. Accommodations 48 beds in single and double rooms, each with private bath. Both men and women are welcome. Make reservations well in advance. The house is open from 8:00 am until 11:00 pm. Closed in September. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied. Meals All meals are supplied with the lodging. Cost of lodging To be arranged when reservations are made. Directions By car: Reach Oviedo and then ask for Santa María del Aramo (about 4 kms from town). By train: Get off in Oviedo and take a taxi to the casa. Contact Engargada de la Casa or anyone who answers the phone Casa de Espiritualidad Santa María del Aramo Ctra. De Latores, 11 33193 Oviedo (Asturias), Spain Tel: 985/254763 / Fax: 985/231796 Monasterio Santa María La Real de Valdediós Cistercian Monks Lying in a secluded valley of Asturias, the monastery is a few miles from Villaviciosa and close to some of the most important sites of the province. "We have guests year round because the monastery is in a 'strategic' position for those who want to see places like Oviedo, Covadonga, Picos de Europa, Gijón and Cangas de Onís. In spite of our popularity, we still preserve a peaceful and remote atmosphere," the Padre Hospedero added. The monastery has a royal foundation (hence the name Santa María La Real). Dating to the 13th century, it was inhabited by the Cistercian Order until 1836 when the monks were forced to leave by the laws of the Desamortización, the suppression of all monastic orders. Following the arrival of the Cistercian and Benedictine orders and the increased importance of the Pilgrim's Way to Santiago de Compostela, the somewhat late Asturian Romanesque style began its development. The monastery is a fine example of that singular architecture. Other similar structures include the Monastery of San Salvador de Cornellana and the churches of San Antolín de Bedón and San Pedro de Villanueva. The monastery was remodeled many times during the 16th and 18th centuries. Only the church has preserved its original Cistercian simplicity. The cloisters, sacristy and the remainder of the rooms are Renaissance and Baroque in style. Except for a short period when it was occupied by the Seminary of the Diocesis of Oviedo, the monastery remained abandoned until 1992 when the Cistercian monks returned. In 1986, the complex was completely renovated thanks to the funds of the European Union and the Principality of Asturias. Occupying a bucolic setting a few miles from the monastery is the pre-Romanesque church of San Salvador (9th century). Built as part of a palace complex for Alfonso III, its ceiling is adorned with vivid Asturian frescoes. The church, which adjoins the monastery, is 13th century Cistercian. The eastern section of the coast of Asturias is a place of beaches and isolated coves. Villaviciosa, considered the cider capital of Asturias, is an old-world port and fishing town amid a landscape of apple orchards and rolling hills. A graceful resort town, it is made all the more engaging by glass-fronted mansions. The Gothic Church of Santa María de la Oliva has a lavishly embellished doorway while the Romanesque San Juan de Amandi is renowned for its carved portal and capitals. Neighboring Mirador del Fito provides an incredible view of the Picos de Europa. Nearby Gijón, or Xixón in Asturian dialect, is an historic city of pre-Roman origin. A busy port, industrial hub and the largest city in Asturias, it possesses one of the best harbors on the north coast. The original core of Gijón is the old fishing quarter of Cimadevilla, a warren of narrow lanes and houses overlooked by Monte Santa Catalina. From the top of the mountain, far-reaching views encompass Picos de Europa, Cabo de Peñas and Cabo de San Lorenzo. The Plaza Mayor in the old town is porticoed on three sides and is the site of the Ayuntamiento and the Palacio de los Valdés. Relics of Roman baths dating from the 1st century AD were found in the cellars of the palace. Pueblo de Asturias, an open-air museum complete with a factory producing the popular giatas (Asturian bagpipes) is located in the new part of town. The museum also features typical Asturian buildings including farmhouses and hórreos (raised granaries). Unlike the hórreos in Galicia, these structures are built of wood and set on stone pillars. When Rome came to Spain, a roadway was built, which after a time came to be called the Vía de la Plata (Silver Way). The route runs for hundreds of miles from Gijón to Seville. Rich in contrast and history, this scenic and cultural venue was used for the transportation of goods and troops. The Cantabric Sea is the starting point of the itinerary in Gijón. Known to the Romans as Gigia, Gijón is considered the capital of the Green Coast. Ribadesella is a fishing town and seaside resort at the mouth of the Río Sella. Divided by a wide bridge which separates the old town from the new, it is composed of a quaint section of old streets and a long, protected beach. A short distance from the new town is Cueva de Tito Bustillo, a cave system with animal paintings between 15,000 and 20,000 years old. In addition to the paintings and engravings of horses and stags, there is a series of vast chambers with otherworldly stalactitic formations. Accommodations There are two types: 1) Hospedería: 8 doubles and 1 single with private bath. Both men and women are welcome. Open year round. 2) Inside the monastery: 12 singles with private bath. Only men seeking spiritual retreats are allowed. They are expected to participate in the daily life of the monastery. Make arrangements well in advance. Busiest periods are Easter, Christmas and the summer months. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied. In the external hospedería, there are living areas that guests may use. Meals All meals are supplied. Cost of lodging Voluntary contribution. Special rules 1) Outside the monastery: guests must be punctual at meals. Those not dining at the monastery are asked to communicate their dining requirements in advance. Curfew at 10:00 pm. Maximum stay 15 days. 2) Inside the monastery: guests must conform to the rules of the monks. Maximum stay 8 days. Directions By car: From Gijón take N632 to Villaviciosa. From there turn right following the signs to the monastery. By train: Get off at Oviedo and take the Oviedo-Villaviciosa bus. There is a bus every 2 hours. Contact Padre Hospedero Monasterio Santa María La Real de Valdediós 33312 Valdediós - Villaviciosa (Asturias), Spain Tel/Fax: 98/5892324 Balearic Islands (Baleares) Castillo de Alaró Property of the Parish of Alaró The Hermitage and Refugio of the Castillo de Alaró are quartered in a relatively inaccessible spot on the mountains above Alaró. "It is a natural terrace with the most spectacular view of all Mallorca, absolutely the best," said the man in charge of the refugio. Built in the 17th century, the interior preserves interesting reliefs and a reredos recounting the martyrdom of Cabrit y Bassa, two popular heroes who defended the kingdom of Mallorca from Aragónese incursions in the 18th century. "It was like a natural fortress, with only one access," the innkeeper continued. The fortress is on a sheer promontory and provides a panoramic view as far as Palma to the south and a large part of the central plain to the east. The site was originally an Arab castle dating to the 8th century but only the walls remain. According to legend, the Moors who had conquered the islands in 798 sought shelter at the castle during the Christian reconquest in 1285, long after their compadres in the lowlands had surrendered. After a two-year siege, the defenders were driven out and their leaders slain. The small church dedicated to Nuestra Madre de Deu is four hundred years old. The hospedería annexed to the hermitage was specifically conceived for mountaineers. In fact, the only way to reach the place is by walking three miles from the village of Alaró, a tiny town of sloping streets. "We have visitors year round. From Monday through Friday, our guests are mainly foreigners. On the weekends, most visitors are Spaniards. Winter is our high season. During the summer, people prefer to stay near the beach," the innkeeper added. The convents of Santo Domingo and San Francisco are Alaró's most notable buildings. The church of Santa María la Mayor is Gothic in origin although Baroque additions have altered its appearance. The town of Palma de Mallorca is approximately 15 miles from Alaró. A picturesque, lively city, it is an important port and the cultural center of the islands. The Palma Cathedral or Seo as it is called by Mallorcans, is one of the most impressive buildings in Spain. A massive golden sandstone structure, it is poised high on the sea wall and offers stunning views of the bay. It appears to dominate the city, particularly at night when an incandescent light streams through its stained glass windows. Begun in the 13th century, the church has been reconstructed many times. Its interior is embellished with stained glass and rose windows. The largest rose window is in the apse and dates from the late 14th century. In the early 20th century, Antoni Gaudí remodeled the interior. The royal chapel contains the high altar over which Gaudí suspended a gigantic baldachin (a structure resembling a canopy) in the form of a crown of thorns. Beside the Seo stands Almudaina, the royal palace where the king and queen of Mallorca lived. The elaborate edifice was built on the remains of the Muslim alcázar. Palma's medieval old town is a labyrinth of cool, cobbled lanes and shady boulevards. Possessing a noble aura, it is filled with sumptuous Gothic churches and grand Baroque palaces, most built in the 17th and 18th centuries. The Moors once dominated the islands and their heritage is evident in the layout of the old town (the Muslim medina), the Almudaina Arch and the Baños Arabes. The 10th century baths feature elaborate arches, each topped by a different capital. The Parque del Mar displays a tile panel with a picture by Joan Miró. Palma is also home to the Fundació Pilar i Joan Miró. After 1941, Miró lived mainly in Mallorca. When he died, his wife converted his former studio and home into an art center. Designed by architect Rafael Moneo, it is known as the Alabaster Fortress and regarded as a unique example of modern architecture. The Pueblo Español is a copy of the village of the same name in Barcelona. It replicates old buildings and famous monuments from throughout Spain. Many of the structures house artists' workshops. Just outside the city center and overlooking the Bay of Palma is the Gothic Gallorgan Castell de Bellver. On a hill surrounded by pine trees, the castle dates to the 13th century and was once a royal stronghold. Built in a circular design, three towers form part of the main castle wall. The fourth, the keep, stands apart from the castle, isolated by a deep moat and linked by a high walkway. The tower is round and consists of five rooms reached via a winding staircase. Characterized by thick walls and tall, narrow windows, the fortress gates are protected by strong thresholds. The castle was built by Pere Salvá, the same master craftsman who designed the Almudaina, a superlative specimen of defensive architecture of the Gothic period. Somewhat further afield, the town of Muro sits in a landscape of orchards. It retains graceful façades from old payesas (peasant farmers' houses) and a Gothic church. Muro is home to the Ethnological Museum of Mallorca which exhibits utensils from crafts that disappeared many years ago. Close to the hermitage, Valldemossa is a mountain town built on the slopes of the Sierra de Tramuntana. A place of tree-lined streets and old stone buildings, it harbors the Cartuja de Valldemossa, an ancient Carthusian monastery. Originally established in 1399 on the site of a Moorish alcázar, the monastery was rebuilt in the 17th and 18th centuries. It is particularly well known because it is where Frederic Chopin and George Sand spent the winter of 1838-39 and where Chopin's piano, manuscripts and letters remain. Their rooms, the monastic church and former monks' cells are open to the public. The Church of la Cartuja contains a pharmacy offset by beautiful Mallorcan drug jars and tiled walls. The atmospheric and lavish Palace of King Sancho adjoins the monastery. Nearby Alfábia was once the country residence of the Moorish Viziers. The elaborate 19th century gardens and late Baroque house represent a typical Mallorcan aristocratic estate and exude a distinctive Moorish sensibility. The gardens shelter date palms, bamboos and citrus trees. Although little remains of the original architecture, there is a Mudéjar inscription on the ceiling of the entrance hall and Hispano-Arabic fountains and pergola. Accommodations 14 rooms containing from 2 to 10 beds. Baths are shared. Both men and women are welcome. Amenities Although linens can be supplied on request, it is recommended that guests provide their own sleeping bags. Towels are not supplied. Meals All meals are available in the restaurant. Cost of lodging $6.00 per person/per night with sleeping bag. $8.00 per person/per night with linens. Special rules The restaurant closes at 11:00 pm. Open year round. Directions By car: From Palma de Mallorca take C713 north about 15 kms to the turnoff for Consell and then follow the signs to Consell and Alaró. By train: From From Palma de Mallorca take the train to Consell and walk to Alaró. Note: It is a 5 km walk to Castillo de Alaró from the town of Alaró. Contact Anyone who answers the phone Castillo de Alaró 07340 Alaró (Mallorca, Baleares), Spain Tel: 971/182112 Santuario de San Salvador Property of the Bishopric of Mallorca The monastery sprawls atop a mountain above Felanitx, a small, rural town renowned for its church, Esglesia de Sant Miquel. Begun in the 13th century, it was rebuilt in the 16th and 17th centuries by the kings of Aragón. The town of Felanitx is also noted for its Sobrasada de Porc negre, (an exquisite sausage of black pork) and for Sant Joan Pelós, a fiesta held on June 24th. As part of the festivities, a man is dressed in sheepskins to represent John the Baptist. The sanctuary is reached via a road of incredible natural beauty. Its lofty position offers far-reaching views of the coast. An important pilgrimage center, the sanctuary was founded in 1348 on the site of a miracle. According to tradition, while attending his herd, a local shepherd had a vision of the Virgin. At first, only a small chapel was built. At a later date, a larger church and hermitage were erected and inhabited by hermits of Saint Paul and Saint Anthony, an order found only on Mallorca. The hermits lived in the sanctuary until December 1992 when advancing age caused them to leave. Two families now care for the church, guest house and restaurant. The church is the third one erected on the site. It conserves the original statue of the Virgin, various statues of saints and a valuable retablo. The remaining buildings of the complex do not contain works of art but according to the caretaker, "Everyone likes the view and the site, both foreigners and Spaniards. Our area is not too touristy and has fine views of almost the entire island." Approximately 4 miles from Felanitx is the Castell de Santueri. Founded by the Moors, it was rebuilt in the 14th century by the kings of Aragón. The monastery is a short distance from the east coast of Mallorca. This section of the island has experienced a tremendous amount of tourism thereby sacrificing some of its pristine beauty. However, many fine stretches of beach and several towns are still worth visiting. An interesting route along the coast begins in Cala Figuera, a fishing village approximately 12 miles southeast of Felanitx. Heading north along the coast is Cala Mondragó, home to one of the area's prettiest beaches. Set in a milieu of rocky outcrops, the town is fringed with pine trees. Portocristo, another coastal town, possesses a small sandy beach and boat harbor and is close to Coves del Drac (Caves of the Dragon). The caves consist of four vast chambers that shelter an amazing assortment of unusually shaped stalactites and stalagmites. Lago Martel, an enormous underground lake of crystalline water (which causes an amazing optical effect), is part of the cave system. Tours of the cave and a boat trip on the lake are available. Further north, the Coves d'Artá contain impressive mineral deposits. Inland, the town of Artá is overseen by a 14th century hilltop fortress. The town's museum harbors a small but worthwhile archaeological collection. Just south of town are the remains of Ses Paisses, a megalithic settlement encircled by a double ring of walls. The monuments date to prehistoric times and represent only a small fraction of the megalithic sites found on the island. Accommodations There are two types: 1) Inside the old hermitage: 7 double, triple and quadruple rooms, some with private bath. 2) Outside the monastery: 6 single and double rooms, some with private bath. Both men and women are welcome. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied. Meals On request, all meals can be supplied in the sanctuary's restaurant. Cost of lodging $7.00 per person/per night (shared bath). $9.00 per person/per night (private bath). Special rules 1) Inside the old hermitage: guests must respect the curfew arranged with the family managing the guest house. 2) Outside guests are provided with a key to the guest house. Both are open year round. Men and women are welcome. Directions By car: From Palma de Mallorca take Route C715 east to Manacor making a right on Route C714 south to Felanitx. From Felantix take the road to Portcolon and then turn right following the signs to the shrine (the road is steep). By train: There is no public transportation to the shrine. Taxis are available in Felanitx. Contact Anyone who answers the phone Call or write in advance of your stay Santuario de San Salvador 07200 Felanitx (Mallorca, Baleares), Spain Tel: 971/827282 Monasterio - Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Lluc Missionares del Sagrado Corazón High in the mountains of the Sierra de Tramuntana lies the remote village of Lluc and the Monasterio de Lluc, considered by many the spiritual heart of Mallorca. The vast and austere monastery was built during the 17th and 18th centuries on the site of a 13th century shrine. Every year hundreds come to the church to pay homage to the original statue of the Virgin of Lluc, known as La Moreneta because of her dark-colored skin . According to tradition, an Arab shepherd (recently converted to Christianity) and a Cistercian monk from the hamlet of Escorca found the statue of Mary in Lluc and took it to Escorca. The next day it disappeared from the church and reappeared where it was originally discovered. This happened on two more occasions. It was then understood that a superior power wanted a chapel to be built on the site of the apparition. Over the ensuing centuries, veneration of the statue increased and the chapel was enlarged and renovated numerous times. In 1891, the direction of the sanctuary was entrusted to the Missionaries of the Sacred Heart. The Baroque complex is an imposing structure. The church and monastery contain precious works of art which can be seen in the museum. The collection includes Mallorcan paintings and medieval manuscripts. Along the Camí dels Misteris (Walk of the Mysteries), a paved walkway leading to the hilltop setting, is a series of bronze bas-reliefs. They were designed by noted Catalan architect and designer Antoni Gaudí who also contributed to the decoration of the church interiors. Lluc is in the area of La Marina, a district studded with old windmills. The shore of La Marina consists of very high cliffs which drop precipitously to the sea. Heading south from Lluc to Cabo Blanco, a coast road passes near Capocorb Vell, a talayotic village of massive, tower-like stone monuments. Each of the Balearic Islands has maintained an enduring sense of identity and strong links to the past. Gothic cathedrals, fishing villages, Stone Age ruins and scenic drives are found throughout the islands. One such drive begins in Palma, loops beside the coastline and heads into the interior before returning to Palma. Estellencs is one of the towns along the eastern seacoast route from Palma. A village of stone buildings, it sits in a milieu of rolling hills. Continuing north, Banyalbufar is set above the coastline. The town is enveloped by stone-walled terraces carved into the hillsides, legacies of its Moorish heritage. A popular artists' retreat, Deiá is an atmospheric place of stone houses and trees crowded together beneath a dramatic backdrop of mountains. The Deiá Coastal Path and Route of the Olive Trees offer excellent hiking opportunities. Sóller and Port de Sóller are next en route. The former stretches across a flat valley of olive groves and orchards beneath the rugged outcrop of the Sierra de Tramuntana. The town is filled with grand manors, verdant gardens, inviting plazas and restaurants. Popular with hiking and boating enthusiasts, the two towns are linked by an old-world tram. Slightly off the loop and a short drive from Sóller, the hamlet of Fornalutx sits in a region of orange and lemon groves. The village is composed of attractive stone houses accented by green shutters and colorful flower boxes. Accommodations 121 beds in rooms with 1, 2 and 3 beds. All rooms have private bath and heating. Both men and women are welcome. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied. There are 3 restaurants (1 inside, 2 outside the santuario) and 1 café. The facility includes a football field, children's area, picnic area, pharmacy and shops. Meals All meals can be supplied by the restaurants for an additional cost. Cost of lodging Single room: 1 night $23.00; 2 nights $21.00 per night; 3 nights or more $20.00 per night. Double room: 1 night $28.00; 2 nights $26.00 per night; 3 nights or more $25.00 per night. Triple room: 1 night $31.00; 2 nights $29.00 per night; 3 nights or more $28.00 per night. Special rules Curfew at 11:00 pm. The guest house opens at 6:30 am; check-in is 8:00 am. Open year round. Directions By car: From Palma de Mallorca take route C711 north to C710 and make a right. Take C710 approximately 30 kms to the monastery. By ferry or plane to Palma: From Palma de Mallorca take a bus to the monastery. From the airport take a bus to Palma and change to a bus to the monastery. Contact Anyone who answers the phone Monasterio - Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Lluc 07315 Lluc - Escorca (Mallorca, Baleares), Spain Tel: 971/871525 / Fax: 971/517096 Email: info@lluc.net Website: www.lluc.net Ermita de Sant Miquel Property of the Bishopric of Mallorca Less than a mile from Montuiri, the convent, church and hotel are positioned atop Sant Miquel. The complex is surrounded by trees and enjoys a vista of the island of Mallorca. The Romanesque stone church is very pretty and dates to the 13th century. The ensemble is divided into three sections: church, convent (inhabited by Trinitarian nuns), hotel and restaurant. The hotel and restaurant were restored at the end of 2001 and are managed by lay personnel. Montuiri is a small, picturesque town somewhat off the beaten path. It is close to Algaida, home of the Gordiola glass works; visitors can watch glass blowers at work. A small museum highlights the history of glassware. About ten miles from Montuiri stands the agricultural village of Campos. It preserves a 15th century hospital and 16th century town hall. The nearby salt mine of Es Salobrar is separated from the sea by a strip of sand dune. This interesting ecological habitat is a nesting site for migratory birds. Located opposite the Levante coast of the peninsula, Mallorca is the largest of the Balearic Islands. More than 300 miles of shoreline and a temperate year-round climate account for its popularity as a Mediterranean tourist destination. The island is renowned for its dramatic scenery including the steep Tramuntana Mountains, a vast central plain, the gentle heights of the Sierra de Levante and a stunning collection of cliffs, bays, creeks and sandy beaches. Interesting remains of megalithic monuments dating to prehistoric times are scattered about the island. Examples include the talayot (tower-like monument) of Sa Canova, the settlements of Ses Paisses, Capicorb Vell and Claper dels Gegants. The pretty port of Alcúdia is also home to ruins of a Roman theater. Catalan is the main language spoken on all the islands save Ibiza. Archaeologists date the first human settlements to around 5000 BC. The islands have been occupied by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans and Visigoths, but it was the Moors who left behind a lingering legacy of elegant mosques, palaces and orchards terraced in the Moorish style. Accommodations 5 double rooms, each with private bath, TV and heating. Both men and women are welcome. Open year round. From October until May, the hotel and restaurant are closed on Mondays. Amenities Towels and linens are supplied. Meals Lodging includes breakfast; other meals can be supplied by the restaurant. Cost of lodging To be determined. Directions By car: From Palma de Mallorca take route C715 towards Manacor exiting at km 31. Travel north following the signs to Montuiri. By ferry or plane to Palma: Take the bus to Montuiri. The convent and the hotel are a short walk from the main road. Contact Anyone who answers the phone Ermita de Sant Miquel 07230 Montuiri - Puig de Sant Miquel (Mallorca, Baleares), Spain Tel/Fax: 971/646314 Ermita de Bonany Property of the Bishopric of Mallorca The hermitage and its hospedería are on a mountain in the center of the island, a couple of miles from Petra. "You can see all of Mallorca from our institution," said the person in charge of hospitality. The hermitage was originally a shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary who appeared in the 16th century. At the onset, the temple consisted only of a roof and altar. Over the years, devotion by the local populace made it possible to build a church. A century ago, a group of nine hermits of the order of San Pablo and San Antonio settled in the complex and assumed responsibility for the shrine. Although they had to leave their voluntary seclusion to obey the order of the Bishop, the hermits inhabited the Ermita de Bonany until 1989, at which time their advancing age and scarce numbers forced them to leave. Since 1989, the church and hospedería have been managed by a private family. "When people ask me when the church was built, I always answer that it is not yet finished," said the man in charge. The façade and altar are from the original building. The remainder of the complex has been renovated on numerous occasions. "The hospedería is a very simple structure. It is all very unpretentious. Most of our guests arrive with backpacks and whatever they need for a few days. Many of our visitors are nature enthusiasts and come to be outdoors amidst the lovely surroundings. The walk from Petra to the Ermita is quite beautiful. I wish I could do it more often but I have three children to take to school every morning... maybe when they are older, they will walk it." Mallorca is the largest of the Balearic Islands and Palma is its main city. The people of the island speak their own dialect of Catalan. It is believed that the first human settlements date from around 5000 BC. Prehistoric relics and monuments document that houses were made of stone and that the people farmed the land, raised domesticated animals and made pottery, tools and jewelry. The island is blessed with a mild climate and beautiful scenery and is known for its stalagmite caves, architectural treasures and vineyards. The Balearic Islands maintain a rich and flourishing tradition in local crafts including olive wood carvings, wrought iron, pottery, cut glass, fine embroidery and objects made from palm leaves and raffia. The town of Petra is in the central region. It was the birthplace of Franciscan friar, Junipero Serra, an active missionary in the Mexican peninsula of Baja California and founder of the missions that gave rise to several California cities, headed by Los Angeles. For fifteen years, the friar taught philosophy in the college at Palma and is remembered in a series of Majolica panels sheltered in a street beside the church of San Bernardino. There are other commemorative panels in the house where the friar was born. Accommodations 5 double rooms with shared bath. Both men and women are welcome. Amenities Towels and linens are not supplied; only the covers of the mattress are changed for each new guest. Linens are only available for a limited number of guests. It is recommended that guests provide their own. Meals Meals are not supplied. Guests are welcome to use the shared kitchen facilities. Cost of lodging $9.00 per person/per night. Directions By car: From Palma de Mallorca take C715 towards Manacor. Go north at Vilafranca de Bonany (PM331) following the signs to Petra. From Petra follow the signs or ask for the Ermita de Bonany. By ferry or plane to Palma: From Palma de Mallorca take the bus to Petra. From there it is about 2 kms to the hermitage. Taxis are available in Petra. Contact Anyone who answers the phone Ermita de Bonany 07520 Petra - Puig de Bonany (Mallorca, Baleares), Spain Tel: 971/561101 Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Puig Property of the Bishopric of Mallorca and Missionaries of the Sacred Heart The monastery's position on the summit of the Puig de Randa offers views over the village and Bay of Pollença and the Sierra Tramuntana. The region is a scenic landscape of olive groves, pine forests, quaint villages and jagged, rocky coastline. "When it is clear, you can even see Menorca," said one of the sisters. The first monastery built on the site belonged to the Augustinian nuns who settled here around 1350. "They say it was a very rich monastery since the nuns belonged to the upper bourgeois class. When the Black Death hit the island, people donated their possessions to the monastery which had a large and rich library and many works of art," recalled the lady at reception. After the Council of Trento established that female orders could not remain in isolated locations, the first community was forced to leave the complex. The nuns left and resettled in the monastery of Purisíma Concepción in Palma de Mallorca where the order still resides. "Of course, the sisters took all their possessions with them," the woman at reception added. The monastery was abandoned for some one hundred years until a community of Missionaries of the Sacred Heart took up residence. They lived in the monastery until a few years ago when they left due to their advancing age and small numbers. The nuns had always run a hostelry and that tradition continues today under the management of the Bishopric of Mallorca. Very little remains of the original 13th century structure. "The oldest parts are a refectory, the kitchen and a tower. The monastery's most interesting works of art and objects are on display in La Palma at the monastery of Purisíma Concepción," she continued. Situated on the edge of fertile farmland, Pollença remains rooted in old traditions. The imposing gates add to the town's noble appearance. Its overall good looks are enriched by ocher-colored stone houses and winding lanes. The town has many monuments: a Gothic chapel, a parish church from the 18th century, a museum of local archaeology and the Baroque convent of Santo Domingo. There is also a Roman bridge on the outskirts of town. Pollença is on the Mallorcan pilgrimage route. Many pilgrims come to climb El Cavari, 356 stone steps along a path fringed by cypress that leads from town to a hilltop chapel and small shrine. At the top, an 18th century hermitage sustains an old crucifix which, according to legend, arrived miraculously. The Puig de Pollença is crowned by a chapel and watchtower that once guarded the city. Pollença is not far from the northeastern coast where the juxtaposition of cliffs and long, sandy beaches are characteristic of the region. The mountainous landscape is one of wild beauty and encompasses the Sierra de San Vicente and the Puig de Ternelles. The ruined Castillo del Rey dates from the Muslim period and offers views over the sheer cliffs to the sea. Puerto de Pollença is an ancient fishing district surrounded by grand estates. Nearby is the archaeological site of Pollentia, a city founded by the Romans in the 7th century BC. The remains of a theater, fragments of the wall and an outline of the road can still be seen. The Badia D'Alcúdia dominates this section of the coast. Broad sandy beaches stretch around the resorts of Port d'Alcúdia and Can Picafort. The former is partly surrounded by 14th century walls and sandwiched between two bays. Alcúdia traces its origins to the Romans and ruins of the Roman theater still exist. Can Picafort is smaller in size and dotted with pine groves. This area is not far from the Parc Natural de S'Albufera Nature Reserve, a refuge of reed beds and lagoons populated by wading birds. Southwest of Pollença, the bay of Sa Calobra is reached through a breathtaking, albeit serpentine, road through the hills that ends at a rocky cove enclosed by steep palisades. A quick walk up the coast leads to Torrent de Pareis, a deep gorge opening into the sea. Accommodations There are two types: 1) 10 rooms with 2, 4 and 5 beds with shared baths. 2) Two large dormitories with shared baths (for groups). Both men and women are welcome. Amenities Linens are supplied, towels can be supplied on request, but it is recommended that guests bring their own. There is a kitchen guests may use. Meals All meals are available on request. Cost of lodging To be determined upon arrival. Special rules Closed Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, December 31st and January 1st. Directions By car: From Palma de Mallorca take route C711 north to C710. Continue north to Pollença. Before entering the town there are signs to the ermita. Since the upper parking lot is often full, the monastery suggests that guests park cars below and walk to the monastery. By ferry or plane to Palma: From Palma de Mallorca take a bus to Pollença and then a taxi to the monastery. Contact Anyone who answers the phone Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Puig Apartado de Correo 223 07460 Pollença (Mallorca. Baleares), Spain Tel: 971/184132 Monasterio - Santuari de Monti-Sion Bishphoric of Mallorca The monastery is situated on a small mountain about a mile above Porreres, a small interior town on the island of Mallorca. Porreres is not far from two noteworthy religious sites: the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Cura and the Sanctuary of San Salvador. Until recently, the monastery was inhabited by monks. Upon their departure, the institution was turned into a guest house/hotel. The church was built between the 16th and 17th centuries. "Although no legend is tied to the presence of the shrine", according to Padre Juan, "nonetheless, the locals are very devoted to the Virgin of Monti Sion." The Balearic Islands lie in the western Mediterranean and have become popular vacation destinations, particularly in the summer months when visitors are drawn to the mild climate and sandy beaches. Mallorca is the largest and most visited of the Balearics. No other European island has a broader scope of scenery. It is comprised of three distinctly different areas: the Sierra del Norte, a range of wooded hills; the Sierra de Levante, an area with stalactite caves; and the Llanura del Centro, the island's fertile plain. Manacor, the island's second largest city and its most industrial, is approximately 20 miles east of the monastery. Known for making artificial pearls, Firma Mallorca was founded in 1890 and offers a factory tour along with insight into the century-old manufacturing process. Manacor's inner city preserves three towers from its ancient fortress. The town's parish church features a Gothic apse. Accommodations 25 beds in 3 large dormitories with shared baths. The accommodations are similar to a youth hostel. Both men and women are welcome, preferably in groups. Open year round (except August 15th). Amenities Towels and linens are not supplied; guests must also provide their own sleeping bags. Meals Meals are not supplied. There is a restaurant on the premises where guests can dine. Cost of lodging $5.00 per person/per night. Directions By car: From Palma de Mallorca take route C715 east to route PM503 south and follow the signs to Porreres and the sanctuary. By ferry or plane to Palma: There is no public transportation to the monastery. Buses stop in Porreres. Take a taxi from there. Contact Anyone who answers the phone Monasterio - Santuari de Monti-Sion 07260 Porreres (Mallorca, Baleares), Spain Tel: 971/647185 Convento - Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Cura Franciscan Friars The Santuari de Cura occupies a singular hilltop position. Its central courtyard highlights the typical beige stone of Mallorca. The loggia to the right of the church harbors a series of fine majolica panels while the church houses one of the Bethlehem Grottoes, typical of Mallorcan churches. The views from the sanctuary include the sea and many of the fifty-eight villages scattered throughout the island. The first community to inhabit the locale was a group of hermits who lived in caves. Once a day, they met to pray in a small chapel. There are two small monasteries on the way to the tiny hamlet of Randa: 14th century Santuari de Sant Honorat and Santuari de Nostra Senyora de Grácia. The former was built on a ledge under an overhanging cliff and contains a 15th century chapel with Valencian tiles. The sanctuary has an open view of the Pla, a fertile plain composed of orchards and vineyards. At the time of his conversion, Ramón Llull (1233-1315), theologian and mystic, inhabited the hermitage. He wrote his religious treatise, Ars Magna, while in residence. During that time, the sanctuary became an important center of intellectual and spiritual life. Over the years, Llull's celebrity impacted the importance of the convent. In 1510, it was established as the first university of the islands and became a place where many came to study philosophy, grammar and theology. Although the convent is no longer a center of international studies, its old classroom has been turned into a museum; its library conserves original copies of the handwritten works of Llull's followers. Randa is just one of many quaint places on the beautiful island of Mallorca, largest in the Balearic chain. It is an island of remarkable diversity, from the rocky coastline of azure blue waters and hidden coves to the alpine-like peaks of the Tramuntana and the enduring charm of its whitewashed villages. Accommodations There are 25 rooms/mini apartments. Rooms have from 2 to 6 beds. The largest rooms include a kitchen. All the rooms have private toilets, s